Bally E2270-33 Error Code 32 (Hopper Empty)

[Newb]

Hello everyone... I just came upon an E2270 (25c slot) that is coming up with error 32, Hopper Empty.  I read a post about a S6000 that had a similar problem and it turned out it needed the "battery" replaced.

Obviously, the E2270 is a much older machine, does it still have a battery that may need to be replaced? 

Any ideas as to where to start to get the hopper to work/engage once again and pay out? 

Very much appreciate your ideas and suggestions. 

Cheers! 

Newb
(Jerry A.)

[Newb]

So I've been reading some of the old posts wrt this topic and the battery seems to come up.  The battery in my machine looks to be original, so I ordered  a rechargeable li-ion battery (3.6v), flat top.  I'll try that and see if the error code clears and hopper works.  If anyone has any tips or suggestions I'd appreciate it.  Many thanks! Jerry A.

[Badbaud]

The battery will not recharge, there is no charging voltage after the mod is done.
You would have to remove the battery and charge it outside the game, a full charged battery should last for many years as the components
it powers in the RAM section draw very little power.
A 32 code means your hopper was either out of coins or did not have enough coins to make it up the shelf wheel fast enough to trigger the coin out switch.
If you have many coins in the hopper and they paid out but did not get counted resulting in a empty hopper check that the pivot arm
 the coin hits before it exits is low enough to toggle the coin out switch.
If it is hitting the switch check your hopper switch for NO/NC continuity to COM of the switch.

[Newb]

So the battery will not charge even with the new diode? Any reason then to switch the diode? Can I leave the old one alone? Also, the gentleman I purchased the machine from had a ton of quarters in the hopper, and he said it just stopped paying out one day -- he cleaned it out, checked for stuck quarters, checked the fuse, oiled the hopper, etc... and still came up with Error 32. So I'm hoping the battery change will have some effect...

[Badbaud]

The E series did not have a complicated, modern, software engine.
It sounds like you may have a defective hopper control board inside the hopper frame.

[Amechanic]

Can you run test 4? This is the hoppers output test. It should count out 10 coins.. If your hopper will not run in test 4 then you either have a blown fuse on the hopper, it’s a 5amp fuse. The other problem could be a bad hopper control board. If the hopper fails to run in test 4, you should see the 32 code again in the win meter.

[ramegoom]

So the battery will not charge even with the new diode? Any reason then to switch the diode?

The diode is used only for a non-rechargeable battery. You need to use a resistor in place of the diode for rechargeable Li-Ion batteries.

See:   http://www.ramegoom.com/john/E2000/li-ion-cpu-mod-E2000.jpg
The 100 ohm resistor is visible along the top edge of the battery. No diode.

[ramegoom]

Now, if you're using a 3.6v. permanent Lithium battery, you do it this way:
http://www.ramegoom.com/john/E2000/e2000MPU_lithium_mod-1200.jpg

[Newb]

Got it.  Currently, this is the setup I have.  So my plan is to put in a rechargeable li ion battery (3.6v), similar to the one you show (green in color) with the resistor.  Does the resistor go in the same spot as current resistor R62? If it already has a resistor, do I need to replace it? Also, you notice the tabs on the picture making contact to the battery --- what's the best way to separate them from the battery.  They seem to be soldered as I can't just pull out the battery and don't want to force it.  It's best to use these same tabs on the new battery, would you agree? Thanks so much for the insight... Jerry A.

[ramegoom]

Keep that resistor, don't use a diode.

The tabs are spot welded on the original battery terminals, so you should remove the tab from the solder hole and add wire to attach to the replacement battery. I use those high current "portable power tool" batteries because they're inexpensive and can hold a charge for a long time. I solder some buss wire on each terminal, then add a layer of double sided tape to affix the battery to the PC board. They work great and last a long time. They're also longer than the original battery, so you'd bend the buss wire under the battery to get it soldered into the PC board. I have done dozens of these and never had an issue.

[Newb]

So it’s still good to to replace the battery with the rechargeable one (just arrived today)? And it is 3.6v. Also, thanks for letting me know to keep the resistor. I did order the diode and they come in bunches, so my plan is to snip the wire off each end of one diode and solder that to the battery terminals (each end). Then solder that to the board holes. Did I get that right?

[ramegoom]

The reason for the diode on the board is to prevent the circuit voltage from charging the permanent battery if you're using one. The battery then can only supply power to the RAM chips when the slot is turned off. They normally use a high speed "Schottky" diode in those instances so the switchover point doesn't cause the RAM chip to lose or corrupt its memory during the power switch-over transition. The diode would have its anode on the positive battery terminal (the arrow side, not the stripe side).

Best choice is a NiMH or preferably Li-Ion rechargeable battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. That will allow a trickle charge when the slot is in operation, and still allow most of the charged battery voltage to feed the RAM chips.

[Newb]

I’m leaving the resistor in place, so no diode. I’m just using one of the diodes to snip off its wire off each end and use them to connect the battery to the board. Will that work?   

[ramegoom]

Sure, if you're not using the diode in the circuit.

[Amechanic]

Sure, if you're not using the diode in the circuit.

Way I understand him is that he wants to just use the wire leads cut off the diode to solder on the battery, then solder the other ends of the cut wire to the board.

[ramegoom]

Yeah, that is what it looks like...pricey bits of wire though.