IGT Double diamond S Plus, DAVID'S RESTORATION LOG WITH PHOTOS

[David Walz]

Optics for the door, and door tester. 

https://youtu.be/pSEfqwQ50DE

[jay]

So.....

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.

I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).

[knagl]

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out.

 

I agree with this 100%. If you have two sets of optics and the exact same thing is happening with both of them, it's somewhere else in the circuit that the issue is cropping up when the machine is vibrated.

[David Walz]

So.....

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.

I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).

Great idea, I AKM going to trace the wires with my meter.

I have cleaned the connectors, however I will check everything out.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

[David Walz]

I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

Well, that sucks, I had no idea how fragile those were, WOW! I understand fully why they would snap, I have worked on 1950 radios and sometimes the wiring, plastic, just crumbles. Lesson learned for me. 

What demented mind at IGT would think of such a crazy idea. 

[David Walz]

I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

I have flip cards, I made them larger, easier to read.

[David Walz]

I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

These are the specifications I need correct?

Is this what I am looking for?

Specifications:

100% Brand New

Diameter : 3MM

wavelength:850nm

Forward Voltage: 1.2-1.3V

[Stayouttadabunker]

I have no idea what the voltage was.
The optic pairs were so cheap online, I didn't care and they worked...lol

The 3mm are the right size.
Plus they have that little molded lip edge that kind of secures the diode into the slot on the black plastic optic holder.

[David Walz]

I am still working on a solution. I located the diagnostic cards, however they were small and I blew each page up to fit the full page.

[Stayouttadabunker]

What I do is open the door, turn on the power switch, press the little white Test button until I see a [10-0] in the Winner Paid window.
At that point, turn the Jkpt/Reset key three times to change that to [13-0] and close the door.
The zero will flash rapidly back and forth between a zero and a 1 if the door optics are aligned.

[jay]

I would then bang the machine around and see if you can introduce a fault as suspected when your pulling the door handle.

[David Walz]

What I do is open the door, turn on the power switch, press the little white Test button until I see a [10-0] in the Winner Paid window.
At that point, turn the Jkpt/Reset key three times to change that to [13-0] and close the door.
The zero will flash rapidly back and forth between a zero and a 1 if the door optics are aligned.

You are awesome. I was reading about what my next move was going to be, I found some extra optics in a box, I switched them.

Please keep your idea's coming. 

[David Walz]

I would then bang the machine around and see if you can introduce a fault as suspected when your pulling the door handle.

Yes, I have been tapping on the cabinet (without the frying pan). 

[David Walz]

Holy S*IT , where is the  aspirin.

[shortrackskater]

Yes, I have been tapping on the cabinet (without the frying pan). 

Like this??? 

[David Walz]

And I still can't find out where this wire goes to, all of my photos showed it hanging out of the wiring harness. 

[jay]

Per the random wire …Do you have a hopper probe ?

I can’t tell where that wire goes but the end looks like a hopper probe.

There is a hole in the hopper where this runs through. When the hopper fills up enough to hit the probe it triggers either a hopper full or the drop door (depending if you have one).

[Stayouttadabunker]

And I still can't find out where this wire goes to, all of my photos showed it hanging out of the wiring harness. 

I have 3 questions for you.

1). Which wiring harness?
2). What are the colors of it. The main body and the stripe. I cannot tell if the main body is faded brown or faded orange.
3). Exactly where does the other end of it go to?

If you can answer these 3 questions, I can tell you exactly what it's for.
You cannot find it in the IGT S+ wiring drawings in the NLG File System?

[David Walz]

I really want to thank both of you for helping me out. I have taken apart this slot machine trying to find the unlock handle issue, I did check out the door optics test and its working.
I thought this rogue wire may be the problem, it's located under the play button.
After I unplugged different wire harnesses, removal of the MPU, removal of the hopper, disassembling the buttons again, checked out the transformer, fuses, the issue is still ongoing. The wiring in the slot machine is not butchered, it is in excellent condition.

I have several wiring diagrams, maintenance books for the S+ and I have been studying them.