BALLY 800 SERIES MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION QUESTIONS

[Ed G]

I am brand new to this forum.  I don't want to unnecessarily expend anyone's time but I am having difficulties roaming on the internet trying to find the proper techniques and materials to use in rejuvinating my collection of Bally slot machines which include an 809B, 809ZZ, 831, 873A and 952A.  I bought these machines in the late 1990s and rejuvinated them individually.  I got them to all operate properly.  At that time, I utilized the cleaning and lubrication methods that I was told to use by various slot repair entities in Las Vegas.  Unfortunately, I did not write down the information, and I believe that new and better lubricants are now being made such as Superlube synthetic grease and oil.

The problems that I am having are due to stagnation.  The machines are rarely used, and I need to go through them all again.  As I got them all working 24 years ago, and they have worked properly ever since, I believe that I have a handle on the inner mechanics through the service manuals and the schematics so I am reaching out for assistance with the best way to clean and lubricate in accordance with today's technology.

My main questions are as follows:
1. What is the best way to clean and then condition the wipers and rivet contact boards?
2. What is the best way to remove existing dried grease from gears and what would be the best product with which to relubricate them?
3.  My reels are moving very slowly so what would be the best way to degrease the needle bearings and then what product should be used to relubricate them?
4. Cleaning and relubricating the clock mechanism?
5. The piston cup seals.  I read that someone has offered them for sale on Ebay.  If I can find them, should the rubber cup seals be lubricated?  If I can't find them, is there a workaround?

I know that this is a big ask, but I would be very grateful if someone could assist me with this information as I want to do this correctly once again.  Regarding cleaning, I am leaning toward isopropal alcohol and a green pad.  Regarding relubrication, I am leaning toward the Superlube synthetic grease and oil.  I also have Lubit 8.  As these machines are in my personal collection and are rarely operated, I want to get this correct and not do something that I think is correct and that experienced forum members might find either incorrect or might lead into further problems in time.  I am just very confused at this point and I want to do the work properly.  Any response and guidance in regard to my topic would be sincerely appreciated.   

[Badbaud]

Download the free Bally electromechanical #2400 service manual in PDF form at www.slotmachinerepair.com inside "helpful PDF's".

[Ed G]

Thank you Badbaud for your prompt reply.  I have that manual in hard copy.  That is what I used as my source to get those machines up and running years ago.  I now need to go through the machines again to get them in working order once more.  I was just hoping that someone out there might be able to answer my five questions with the use of current technology as the synthetic lubricants of today might add to the longevity of my applications.  I restored them years ago in accordance with that manual and those lubricants referenced in the manual have dried and are no longer pliable. 

I did not see that I could respond to you directly hence this reply.  Thank you!

[wolftalk]

... I believe that new and better lubricants are now being made such as Superlube synthetic grease and oil.

I'd agree and therefore the bally documentation on lubrication won't matter.  However, this is like motor oil in cars ... ask 20 people and get 40 different answers with enough "except when"s tossed in to make ya want to go back to 1940's and use the recommendation then - vaseline.

while heavy grease on significant metal-on-metal pressure points like the release pawls, windup gears, and handle gears will protect from excessive wear, the machines aren't being used 24x7 and having grease harden isn't worth the trouble imho.

fwiw, when I disassemble stuff I just use isopropyl alcohol to clean all the parts, tri-flow lubrication with teflon (squeeze bottle) for metal-on-metal parts, clock gears and the reel needle bearings, nothing on plastic-on-metal parts, and nu-trol contact cleaner on the contact plates (basically a pure mineral oil).

cleaning contact plates (reel wiper boards, payout counter, stepper units) - isopropyl and a scrub pad.  At the Pacific Pinball Museum we use maroon 3M pads, but the common green kitchen scrub pad is fine.  Anything that won't leave scratches or shed, so I wouldn't use sandpaper.  I clean then spray on a little nu-trol and smear it around with my finger.

see https://bingo.cdyn.com/techno/overhaul/magic_ring/chemicals.html for pics of products.

occasionally if bored I'll use a synthetic grease on the release pawls.

if you have sticky lube in the mechanism, spray solvents like brake cleaner, carb cleaner, mass airflow sensor cleaner, etc. may shoot it out better than just brushing alcohol and wiggling things if you don't want to disassemble.  Just keep away from paper labels and reel strips, and make sure the solvent evaporates away before making sparks.

super-lube will definitely work, but when using on contact plates the key is really thin.  Goop it on and it will make wiper movement sluggish.  If you can see it, it's too thick :-) 

thin amount of super lube on the piston cup seal will work.

wrt the cup seals themselves, I put someone's writeup here:
  https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_info/Bally%20Piston%20Cup%20Replacement.pdf

poke around in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ for more info if you're bored.