MLD Display jumping issue?

[millionaire2k]

The back screen of my MLD display is jumping up and down about a quarter inch.  I tried swapping cables and the little jumper cable, and it still happens.  It comes and goes, happens around 90% of the time.  All fans are spinning.  I have not done anything to the machine in months, just played it.

Does anyone know how to solve this?

Do I need a replacement screen or maybe a replacement part?

If so where is best source for either new or very good screens?

My machine is a G23 with a 22in MLD display.  Kortex KTL220MD-04

[Stayouttadabunker]

A youtube video of the screen behavior would been helpful.
I'd place a WTB ad in the NLG Classifieds section for a new MLD lcd monitor.
Hopefully a member/vendor would have one to sell ya.
I don't know if you can find a replacement lcd driver board though you could probably ask at slot machine scrapyards, for example like these two places I've attached links to..>>>

https://get-t.net/

https://www.spininc.com/

[Harp]

Background jumping on an MLD Monitor is the actual back LCD Panel, very common issue along with total white background on the MLD

[Stayouttadabunker]

Background jumping on an MLD Monitor is the actual back LCD Panel, very common issue along with total white background on the MLD

Yes...but how would you go about repairing it?

[Harp]

You purchase a LCD Panel which for the KTL220MD is LTM220MT05, strip the MLD down to the back panel and replace the panel

When you purchase the panel you would remove the actual LCD leaving only the frame and backlights

[coolwavepic]

You have a source or a link to share for the LCD  replacement or is it better just getting another monitor? Mine is doing the same thing but eventually went white. I havent had time to fix it yet but was thinking it was the AD card. So its definately not the AD card?

[Tilt]

Hard to say it's definitely not something, but most likely it's the panel.  I had to replace an inner panel on my MLD monitor as well.  I think the inner ones go bad quicker because of the heat from being sandwiched between the LED back lights and the outer panel.  I could be wrong on that, but it seems like the inner ones are the ones that tend to fail.  It's a Samsung panel.  I found a replacement using the part number Harp provided from a Chinese supplier on Ebay.  It was around $135 shipped a couple of years ago, probably more now like everything else if you can find one.

[sixcardmark]

I have two 22" MLD's with bad inner screens.  I too believe it's from heat.  Are the inner and outer screens the same?

[Tilt]

I believe they are the same, but I've only replaced the inner panel.

[Harp]

All the MLD with a jumping or white background I have repaired 100% the back LCD Panel

Can count on one hand the number of times I have replaced the front panel

Front and back can use the same panel

https://www.enlcd.com/p/ltm220mt05-lcd-panel/

[millionaire2k]

A YouTube guide on how to swap the panels would be amazing.

Is it EZ?

Also since I would be replacing the panel, what fans should I buy to replace while I'm in the monitor?

[coolwavepic]

Harp you have been amazing at telling us what to do so far so THANK YOU for your information you have provided! Thats what NLG is all about...

My question is are these panels in all revisions of the G23 model? I know there were some different AD cards depending on the revision. (?). I would hate to order one of these and then it being the wrong one if the revision number was different. Maybe it doesnt matter with the panel itself?

When working on the MLDs... ive only got as far as the power supply and AD board ... I have not gone any deeper in the monitor. If there is a short list of things to get to the panel, let me know.

I can make a YouTube video then if I'm confident in replacing the panel.

[Harp]

Yes you are correct about the different versions of A/D Scaler Board, all panels I have replaced use the same LTM220MT05 panel and are not dependent of the A/D Board version

[coolwavepic]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU  ** Harp to get the ball rolling! It worked and wasnt that hard to replace at all!!!!

So i found this on slot tech forum....

I followed this and it was easy. My only hang up was getting confused with the TABS to take apart the layers. Like a dummy I was try to remove all the tab at once. Some are for the top layer and some were for the middle layer...lol 

Other than that it was easy.

Here is the post on slot tech forum....

You have to be careful and it's best to wear gloves when handling LCD panels or fingerprints can cause hot spots and degradation and do about the same thing. 
After taking the back off, I take the 4 screws out of the rack of fans and move it out of the way to unplug the touch screen cable and temporarily put it back into place with one screw,
flip it over, take out the 4 small side screws and remove the top with the touch screen and set it aside. 

Then unplug the the 2 cables from the panels, remove the 3 screws holding the board and unsnap the plastic frame for the top panel all the way around and carefully set it in a safe place.  You can't fold the board towards the top and tape it down because of the prongs on the plastic piece so you just have to let it dangle and not stress or jar it too much. 

After the top panel is out of the way, remove the bracket that the ribbon cable board was screwed into so you can get down to the board for the rear panel and unscrew it. 
The next layer is just a sheet of glass in a frame that lifts right off and you're down to the panel.  I find it easier to remove the bad panel if I unsnap its frame too and go along the edge from the bottom side to get the panel loose from the gasket.  I use a thin guitar pick but anything could be used, even a razor blade because the panel is junk anyway so don't worry about damaging it. 

Once the junk panel is removed from the frame, snap it back onto the monitor.

The next step is to carefully disassemble the new panel from China to get the inner panel piece out to set back on the frame. 

On the new panel, take out 3 screws holding the metal cover over the board and take off the cover.  I use a small piece of tape to hold the board in place after removing the cover so it doesn't flop around. 

Then I unsnap the outer metal frame, top side (opposite end as the board) and both sides and lift the panel out of the bottom side as to not hit or damage the ribbons. 

Then carefully flop the board over and tape it to the front of the panel with some masking or painter's tape, something that comes off easily or won't leave residue. 

Carefully work something under the panel to get it unstuck from the gasket, carefully lift it off, and set it onto the frame on the monitor.  Remove the tape, screw the board down, and reassemble in the reverse order.  (bracket, inner glass/frame, top panel, etc.)   If you do get a little tape residue on the panel, alcohol on a soft cloth will clean it up.

It's not that difficult, just a little time consuming and goes well if you're careful and take your time.

[coolwavepic]

Another note... the screen looks brighter! I dont know if was from cleaning everything inside or the new panel let more light through.

[Harp]

Congratulations on refurbishing your MLD, yes it's amazing how much brighter it is after replacing and cleaning

Enjoy

[Tilt]

Glad you got it fixed    It's not real difficult, but it's kind of intimidating the first time.  I found taking a lot of pictures and videos helped make sure I got it back together the same way it came apart.

 

[Rob in AK]

I replaced mine this weekend for jumping screen issue. Got the part from the link Harp provided. Used the notes provided by Coolwavepic. Went fairly smooth. Replaced all the fans while I was there also. All thanks to this wonderful website & group of friends!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU  ** Harp to get the ball rolling! It worked and wasnt that hard to replace at all!!!!

So i found this on slot tech forum....

I followed this and it was easy. My only hang up was getting confused with the TABS to take apart the layers. Like a dummy I was try to remove all the tab at once. Some are for the top layer and some were for the middle layer...lol 

Other than that it was easy.

Here is the post on slot tech forum....

You have to be careful and it's best to wear gloves when handling LCD panels or fingerprints can cause hot spots and degradation and do about the same thing. 
After taking the back off, I take the 4 screws out of the rack of fans and move it out of the way to unplug the touch screen cable and temporarily put it back into place with one screw,
flip it over, take out the 4 small side screws and remove the top with the touch screen and set it aside. 

Then unplug the the 2 cables from the panels, remove the 3 screws holding the board and unsnap the plastic frame for the top panel all the way around and carefully set it in a safe place.  You can't fold the board towards the top and tape it down because of the prongs on the plastic piece so you just have to let it dangle and not stress or jar it too much. 

After the top panel is out of the way, remove the bracket that the ribbon cable board was screwed into so you can get down to the board for the rear panel and unscrew it. 
The next layer is just a sheet of glass in a frame that lifts right off and you're down to the panel.  I find it easier to remove the bad panel if I unsnap its frame too and go along the edge from the bottom side to get the panel loose from the gasket.  I use a thin guitar pick but anything could be used, even a razor blade because the panel is junk anyway so don't worry about damaging it. 

Once the junk panel is removed from the frame, snap it back onto the monitor.

The next step is to carefully disassemble the new panel from China to get the inner panel piece out to set back on the frame. 

On the new panel, take out 3 screws holding the metal cover over the board and take off the cover.  I use a small piece of tape to hold the board in place after removing the cover so it doesn't flop around. 

Then I unsnap the outer metal frame, top side (opposite end as the board) and both sides and lift the panel out of the bottom side as to not hit or damage the ribbons. 

Then carefully flop the board over and tape it to the front of the panel with some masking or painter's tape, something that comes off easily or won't leave residue. 

Carefully work something under the panel to get it unstuck from the gasket, carefully lift it off, and set it onto the frame on the monitor.  Remove the tape, screw the board down, and reassemble in the reverse order.  (bracket, inner glass/frame, top panel, etc.)   If you do get a little tape residue on the panel, alcohol on a soft cloth will clean it up.

It's not that difficult, just a little time consuming and goes well if you're careful and take your time.