Updating Blackfin controller firmware on a G20 w/14 OLED button deck

[sccarlso]

 Hi All,

Odd issue with the 14 OLED button deck on my G20 that’s running Family 20 very well.  But for a few games the OLED buttons only populate a few of the OLED buttons.

And for other games when I switch to them, they all light up, as it’s a perfect 14 OLED deck with all good bright buttons.  But they display nothing but twinkling stars on all of the buttons, and don’t work at all with the game. 

I suspected the blackfin firmware right away.  And searching NLG, I found a prior post where rickhunter apparently confirmed this.  Post is below.

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31760.0;wap

The blackfin firmware is currently:

BFDBS028 2013-04-16

Which is close to what Rick advised in that post is likely firmware for a GameKing variant.

Rick advised that the recommended firmware for non GameKing should be:

BFDB008E 2010-11-08

And Rick knows his stuff for sure! 

I have the IGT Downloader, and the firmware .bin file for BFDB008E 2010-11-08

So to correct this.  I plan on flashing the blackfin controller to firmware BFDB008E 2010-11-08.

I have good docs on flashing. But am just looking for a sanity check.  🙂

With the IGT downloader installed, and the correct flash file, Is it as simple as connecting to the blackfin controller with USB, power on the machine so it has power.  And updating the blackfin controller with the IGT downloader to BFDB008E 2010-11-08 ?

When complete.  Power off, Disconnect the USB used to flash the blackfin controller, reconnecting the machines USB back to it, and powering on again and it should then indicate its flashed with BFDB008E 2010-11-08 firmware?

That’s what I believe from the docs.  So it should be fairly easy. 

Would just appreciate a confirmation from Rick or anyone who is familiar with the process that this is how to get that different firmware flashed in there.  So the OLED buttons should then load & display properly with the games.  My G23 has no issues but it that different blackfin firmware already.  😉

If that’s all that’s needed or if there’s any step missed, appreciate any comments so I get the G20s blackfin controller on that suitable firmware version.

Thanks in advance!

[RB]

Do you have a chip programmer? Just pull the eeprom, reflash it and reinstall.

[sccarlso]

Hi RB!

I do!  The blackfin controller isn’t easy to see in a G20, but I’m sure I can find it.

Is the chip type easily identified?  Sometimes they have a sticker & when removed you can’t read the chip numbers on it.

Thanks! 👍

[rickhunter]

There are 2 types of G20's.  One has the blackfin controller built into the backplane controller assembly (has a yellow pullout handle).  The other one has the blackfin controller as a stand-alone part on the left side of the cabinet.  Just follow the hdmi cable form the player deck and see where it connects.  The chip is an 8 pin chip usually labeled with the firmware burned into it.  It is located in the middle of the backplane controller assembly (if so equipped) or on the top of the dedicated blackfin controller.

[sccarlso]

Thanks Rick!  Did find that it was in the middle of the I/O board. 

Is there a difference between the Blackfin bin file BFDB008E.bin required for a G20 vs a G23?  Or if it's a standalone card or right in the I/O board as with mine?  Apparently that's the latest Blackfin .bin file to flash on them.  No mention that they are unique for G20, G22, G23, standalone card or on board.

I was able to read the chip ID and it was a 25L4006.  Successful read of the chip, saved the original Blackfin flash from the chip to a .bin file which was version BFDB0019-2013-11-07.   Then I flashed the chip with the BFDB008E.bin file successfully and it verified ok.

Put the reflashed chip back in.  But on boot all the buttons light up with the ugly CSDA errors, and the buttons also all flash full yellow in a cycling pattern. Nothing was disconnected, just the chip flash and put it back in...

I don't have any other .bin file, so I'm wondering if there's a difference in the bin files between a G20 and G23, or if my bin file is corrupt or not supported on a G20 that would cause this, or if I don't have the correct firmware flash file for a G20 with the Blackfin right on the I/O board. 

Pic of the buttons/screen after booting with the chip flashed with the BFDB008E.bin file.

Thanks!

[sccarlso]

Did finally get this sorted out.   A critical bit of info was omitted from the doc I had which blocked the firmware from flashing.

For a G20/G23 v2 (blackfin controller is in the board, not seperate, and a v2 board has a yellow handle so it's easy to tell).

Right in the center is the Boot chip.   This isn't the button firmware, just the boot chip for the Blackfin controller.
It's firmware should be the latest, and can be flashed out of the board, or in the board with the software.
Filename is BFB00005.bin  But you shouldn't need to flash this, it's usually already at BFB00005.

For the actual button deck firmware flashed with the software utility via USB.

Recommended versions
Filenames are BFDB008E.bin  (example)

BFDB008E.bin ENGLISH ADD SUPPORT FOR EDGE-LIT DYNAMIC BUTTONS AND HALO-EFFECT LIGHTING FOR
UNIVERSAL SLANT AND G23 MACHINES.

BFDB011E.bin ENGLISH DYNAMIC BUTTON PANEL AND HALO LIGHTS WITHOUT RAINBOW ATTRACT

I was able to reflash to restore the deck to normal, except I still have issues with buttons not displaying with some fam20 games.  The version I wish I had seems to be the firmware file below and looks like it would be the latest that you would run.  And possibly run the best with Fam20.

BFDB0015.bin Dynamic Button Support for Ascent Phase 1

In the end, with a v2 board and flashing the button deck firmware with the utility.   There are DIP switches by the button deck, but you don't touch them unless switching to a different button combination of static/dynamic buttons.

But on a v2, it won't accept a flash unless you set the 4 tiny DIP switches right by the boot chip on the board all to the ON position.  Pic shows the switches.  Once this is done, the flash completes in seconds and done.  Put the 4 DIP switches all back to the OFF position and done!

Hope this might help someone in the future!