Author Topic: Jumpy Glitchy Screen? (Read 641 times)

hornetgod13 · « **on:** November 18, 2024, 09:34:15 AM »

I have a nice IGT double up. Draw poker machine but the screen intermittently jumps or jitters. I can't quite explain it. I've tried adjusting it and it doesn't seem to help. The glitchiness comes and goes. But if you bump the machine it seems to increase.
I pulled the monitor out and checked for any loose connections.And I don't see anything.Is there anything else that you can think that I might check?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2024, 09:36:54 AM »

Can you post a photo of the machine?

Badbaud · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2024, 09:55:23 AM »

I have encountered this on some of the older poker games.
The meter wires and other harnesses above the monitor hang down onto (close) the monitor's high voltage anode.
Redress those wires with some cable ties so they don't hang so close to the anode.

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2024, 09:57:34 AM »

Here is a picture you requested.

Chris-socal · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2024, 11:25:25 PM »

Any update on this?
Its also possible the monitor board needs a capacitor kit.

Chris

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 20, 2024, 12:29:17 PM »

Still intermittently glitchy (jumpy). Another issues is when its first turned on its skewed all the way to the left (half a card is off the screen) once it warms up 5 to 10 minutes, it centers itself. The jitters come and go.
How hard is it to recap the monitor. Are there kits available?

Chris-socal · « **Reply #6 on:** November 20, 2024, 11:18:08 PM »

We need to know what monitor it is, open the door and take a picture of the monitor so we can see where the remote knobs are.
The monitor should just pull out….some have one locking screw underneath the monitor to keep it from sliding out when being moved. Once you get the monitor frame out there will be a label somewhere on the back.
In most instances the chassis can be re-capped.

Chris

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 21, 2024, 07:44:05 AM »

I tried to resize my pictures down to 20%.But the website still says the images are too large. I did pull the monitor and the IGT part number tag shows 69103690. I'm not sure if that's the monitor part number or the chassis part number.

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2024, 07:50:58 AM »

Here's another attempt at resizing the pictures.I hope this helps

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 21, 2024, 01:35:09 PM »

It appears to be a 1492.

Chris-socal · « **Reply #10 on:** November 21, 2024, 06:45:35 PM »

That is a Ceronix 1492 and based on the blue capacitors it is probably a early model. It needs a cap kit for sure…as a starting point.

If you don’t solder feel free to reach out to K-Lar or me, we both work on 1492s.

Chris

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 21, 2024, 08:28:49 PM »

I'm taking it to Jim, here locally. He said he will recap it while I wait. I'll let you know how it goes and the results.

Chris-socal · « **Reply #12 on:** November 22, 2024, 01:53:54 AM »

Yes, thats perfect! There are about 6 critical caps on that board, but they should all be replaced. Jim is great.

He can connect the monitor chassis to another signal source which will determine if the problem is the monitor.

Chris

Jim · « **Reply #13 on:** November 22, 2024, 10:04:03 AM »

I have some kits that were made by Happ back in the day. only doing the soldering and replacement, that's as far as I can go.

connecting to an other signal soure, not so much, that's for people above my level of repair, LOL.

thanks for the kind words.

Jim

hornetgod13 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 24, 2024, 03:05:32 PM »

I drove down to Jim today and he installed a recap kit on the monitor. Once I brought it home and put it back in the machinen it powered up dead center with no glitching/jitters. I consider the issue solved. I hope this may help someone else down the road. I must thank Jim once again for helping me out. He's a heck of a guy with a lot of knowledge and experience.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #15 on:** November 24, 2024, 03:29:17 PM »

WOW! That old screen looks brand new! Nice!

Chris-socal · « **Reply #16 on:** November 24, 2024, 10:32:08 PM »

So glad caps did the trick. 1492s are pretty consistent, start with caps!

Chris

Jim · « **Reply #17 on:** November 25, 2024, 10:05:05 AM »

just wanted to post my findings for the 1492 board repair.

cap kit contained 16 caps, found 4 bad, they were 2-1micro/50 volts,,2-100micro/25volts, they didn't register on the cap 88A analyzer.
other bigger caps, were in the .25 range, all the 10 micro/25, 6 in total, ranged from 2.50 up to 4.50 range.

the kit contained 16 caps, I only replaced 15 caps, could not find C169 on that chassis, 100micro/25volts.

also found the pin on the neck board that goes to the wire that goes around the tube was not soldered into the board.

Hope this Helps
Jim

Chris-socal · « **Reply #18 on:** November 25, 2024, 11:16:36 AM »

Jim, thats very consistent and I completely forgot to mention the yoke pins, very common for those to dry up and glitchy video can be a symptom.

Not all boards have 169, its in the pincushion area.

There is also a SMD cap on PRA-H that isn’t in the kits. 10uf/16v. If they go out you can have a variety of video issues. 90% of the time they are fine. We snip them off and replace with a radial if there are unsolved issues. It looks funny but works fine. Picture is attached. Its not very good but you can figure it out. LOL

Chris

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Author Topic: Jumpy Glitchy Screen? (Read 641 times)