Bally 1088 - new to me machine

[wolftalk]

resetting a win meter is easy since you just tap into one of the coils that fires at reset ... e.g. the payout counter reset coil.

since your payout counter steps up once for every coin ejected, you may be able to add or tap onto a "step-up arm switch".  Would need to see a picture of the ratchet/gear side of the payout counter.

if you haven't accessed that you, you remove the top screw/nut holding the payout counter frame to the hopper, then pull down the spring on the linkage connecting to the roller arm that the coin moves up/down as it exits the hopper. 

with the spring pulled down, you can pull the linkage from the roller arm as you flip the entire payout counter down (it pivots on the lower screw in the frame if the lower screw is loose enough).

I did find a coin mech frame with the parts you need for the lockout coil (armature, spring, retaining plate and screws).  Can ya take a pic of the left side of your mech frame (outside edge) or just check to see if you still have the plate and screws?

[BubbaK]

Here are a few pictures of the coin mech area and the payout counter. While I had the counter down, I noticed one of the relays inside has a very old, leaking capacitor on it. Its a 30MFD 250vdc Cap.

[wolftalk]

on the coin mech frame, you need the armature plate, retaining plate, screws and spring.  I have all those for ya.

your payout counter has the extra cam and microswitch for a hopper cutoff relay circuit.  How many relays do you have with capacitors and diodes on them? 

you have the switches needed on the payout counter step-up arm to support a win meter.  It's the same switch as would be used for a total out meter and the win meter step-up coil would be wired in parallel to the total out meter step-up coil.

in this case, I'd guess the white/yellow 53-2 wire on the step-up arm switch would attach to a win meter.  That wire should be on the hopper plug if your cabinet is a 883, but you'd need to bring it to the door.  There's probably available pin locations in the door molex/amphenol plugs to use for adding a wire if you have the crimp pins.

you already have wire 70 on the door, so you'd need 53-2 and a reset wire ... bally typically used 78-1 from reel mech B-1 switch which will be available on the reel mech plugs.

that just leaves whether a win meter would fit and sourcing the parts.  If ya look in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/1089/pics/ at the inside door pic, you can see how the meter is kinda long and you need a cutout in the lamp bracket.  I'll dig into a parts box and see if I have anything.

the 5000 manual shows the meter and its mounting bracket on page 6.

[BubbaK]

Thanks for the info. I only noticed one capacitor on a coil. I didn't see any diodes that I noticed. I'll take a closer look at it. I'll also get a better look at the space for the payout meter. I'm not sure if the depth will work. I think the payout window is only 1" wide.

[wolftalk]

one end of the diode is attached to the coil.  The other end may attach to a resistor or the hardness wire.  Sometimes they are in sleeves so not as noticeable.

if the relay with the capacitor has switches with plastic coated wires on it, that's the safety delay relay.

if you have another relay with cap, resistor and diode, that could be a hopper cutoff relay.  Usually one switch on the HCR has orange wire 70 and mating blade goes to the payout relay coil.

if you don't have a HCR, that's good.  It's just a much faster acting circuit that does the same thing as the safety timer ... tries to detect pays that aren't being tracked correctly and shuts down the payout so the hopper contents aren't dumped out to the very happy player.   Typically the HCR will cut off within a few coins if the payout counter is not stepping up when coins are being ejected from the hopper.

the HCR came about when they went to dollar games.  Even small overpays become more significant then.