s+plus problem - maybe coin comparator, maybe not.

[msaul]

Looking to replace this coin comparator on a 4 Of July IGT S plus machine. Machine keeps tilting with a code 21 error. I replaced the capacitor and the sensor switches test good. This is a recurring issue.

[Stayouttadabunker]

You understand that there needs to be a SAMPLE coin placed behind where you see that copper circle?
If you're using quarters, slide that copper part to the right and place the quarter in there.
The quarter will end up touching that black plastic part on the left and be in position of where I drew you a green circle.
The unit will then be ready to accept quarters and get compared against the sample coin.

Also, for home use, grab a small jewelry screwdriver and turn the small coin sensitivity dial on the bottom right corner, all the way counter-clockwise to the left.

[sixcardmark]

Code 21 has nothing to do with the CC, it's coming from the coin-in optics board mounted under the CC.  Try cleaning the 3 sensors, do not use alcohol. 

[msaul]

You understand that there needs to be a SAMPLE coin placed behind where you see that copper circle?
If you're using quarters, slide that copper part to the right and place the quarter in there.
The quarter will end up touching that black plastic part on the left and be in position of where I drew you a green circle.
The unit will then be ready to accept quarters and get compared against the sample coin.

Also, for home use, grab a small jewelry screwdriver and turn the small coin sensitivity dial on the bottom right corner, all the way counter-clockwise to the left.

Yes, I have the sample quarter in place. I have adjusted the small coin sensitivity back and forth and I can get it to work but the tilt will come back randomly.

[msaul]

Code 21 has nothing to do with the CC, it's coming from the coin-in optics board mounted under the CC.  Try cleaning the 3 sensors, do not use alcohol. 

I have cleaned the 3 sensors already and they test good during diagnostics. ( one of the sensors was bad before and I was able to fix it by removing Q4 from the sensor board)

[Jim]

Have you checked the 10-1, 11-1 and 12-1, since you got the 21 code. Do that and let us know the results.

Removing Q-4, basically uses the three optics for coin recognition,  something there has to be the cause of the  21 code.  OR the door optics are not working to clear the 21 code.

Jim

[msaul]

Have you checked the 10-1, 11-1 and 12-1, since you got the 21 code. Do that and let us know the results.

Removing Q-4, basically uses the three optics for coin recognition,  something there has to be the cause of the  21 code.  OR the door optics are not working to clear the 21 code.

Jim

Yes, I have checked 10-1, 11-1 and 12-1 and they test fine (I used a piece of carboard to test). The door optics are good since I have been able to clear the tilt but the error will come back randomly. Is this tilt more likely caused by the sensor board or the CC?. I found a bad sensor on the sensor board and I was able to fix it by removing Q4.

[sixcardmark]

Q4 removal is done if 10-1 does not change from 10-0 to 10-1. You stated all 3 sensors worked fine.

[msaul]

Q4 removal is done if 10-1 does not change from 10-0 to 10-1. You stated all 3 sensors worked fine.

Q4 removal is done if 10-1 does not change from 10-0 to 10-1. You stated all 3 sensors worked fine.

Yes, 10-1 didn't work during test but after removing Q4 it works, all 3 sensors test good during diagnostics.

[Jim]

Ok, if this is a RANDOM ERROR , then I would suspect the 10 pin connector, it uses the same type pins that cause the issues with the connector on the motherboard. From use ,the pin contact becomes intermittent and could cause the random error.
To check for this , unplug the connector, backlit the connector insome fashion, look into the connection hole and observe the pin contact, it should be at the top of the connector, if not, the pin is compressed and an intermittent condition will cause that error.
If you find the culprit, the connector is easily removed and the connection reshaped, then reinserted.

Jim

[Jim]

one more thing to add:  helped another person who was having intermittent 21 codes, discovered the c optic wire on the harness that plugs into the machine harness was bad, the wire is crimped onto the pin, that crimp because loose, any vibration of the door was causing a 21 code, fixed the wire connection, no more 21 code.  you may want to check that?

Jim

[msaul]

one more thing to add:  helped another person who was having intermittent 21 codes, discovered the c optic wire on the harness that plugs into the machine harness was bad, the wire is crimped onto the pin, that crimp because loose, any vibration of the door was causing a 21 code, fixed the wire connection, no more 21 code.  you may want to check that?

Jim

Thanks for the info, I'll check the harness and get back with results.

[msaul]

one more thing to add:  helped another person who was having intermittent 21 codes, discovered the c optic wire on the harness that plugs into the machine harness was bad, the wire is crimped onto the pin, that crimp because loose, any vibration of the door was causing a 21 code, fixed the wire connection, no more 21 code.  you may want to check that?

Jim

Thanks for the info, I'll check the harness and get back with results.

I finally have a chance to work on the machine. I replaced all ten pins on the optic harness and now code 21 won't clear and during diagnostics 12-0 won't change to 12-1. Looks like sensor C is now bad. Are there two sensor boards used on the IGT S-plus models? I just saw one for sale on Ebay but it looks different from the one I have.

[Stayouttadabunker]

The coin-in optics are made up of two circuit boards in the sandwich.
One board has three optic emitters, the other board has three optic receivers.
I would check the bottom ones on both boards.
When you get them working right, your emitters on the ABC optics should look like this...>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZDpGNtZfi04?

[msaul]

The coin-in optics are made up of two circuit boards in the sandwich.
One board has three optic emitters, the other board has three optic receivers.
I would check the bottom ones on both boards.
When you get them working right, your emitters on the ABC optics should look like this...>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZDpGNtZfi04?

Ok, I just check the board and the three emitters look to be okay.... (HOw to I post a picture?)

 

[msaul]

The coin-in optics are made up of two circuit boards in the sandwich.
One board has three optic emitters, the other board has three optic receivers.
I would check the bottom ones on both boards.
When you get them working right, your emitters on the ABC optics should look like this...>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZDpGNtZfi04?

Ok, I just check the board and the three emitters look to be okay.... (HOw to I post a picture?)

Ok, here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/4Z-qO0p_F3w

[Stayouttadabunker]

The emitters are working. That's good.
I'm glad you took apart the sanswich.
Check the bottom hole of the black plastic encoder guide too, for debris, lint, dirt.
That also means the wires going to that particular circuit board on the sandwich is good too.

Now you need to check the receivers.
That's much different but you won't need to have it hooked up to the machine to check.
Watch this video I made...it's for door optic receivers but coin-in optics work the same way too.
You WILL need a multimeter to check the receivers and a flashlight of some sort.
There's no other way other than the popsicle stick/folded paper test - which you've already done.

So far, you've narrowed it down to a possible burned-out receiver optic at the "C" location.
Here's a link I made on how to test a receiver optic.
You'll have to figure out a way to touch each tab of a soldered optic probably from the backside and still have another hand to maneuver a flashlight?!
Kind of have to figure out which side is the anode and cathode.
and you need to have octopus arms!  ..>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/UxZiq-y4O90

[msaul]

The emitters are working. That's good.
I'm glad you took apart the sanswich.
Check the bottom hole of the black plastic encoder guide too, for debris, lint, dirt.
That also means the wires going to that particular circuit board on the sandwich is good too.

Now you need to check the receivers.
That's much different but you won't need to have it hooked up to the machine to check.
Watch this video I made...it's for door optic receivers but coin-in optics work the same way too.
You WILL need a multimeter to check the receivers and a flashlight of some sort.
There's no other way other than the popsicle stick/folded paper test - which you've already done.

So far, you've narrowed it down to a possible burned-out receiver optic at the "C" location.
Here's a link I made on how to test a receiver optic.
You'll have to figure out a way to touch each tab of a soldered optic probably from the backside and still have another hand to maneuver a flashlight?!
Kind of have to figure out which side is the anode and cathode.
and you need to have octopus arms!  ..>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/UxZiq-y4O90

Ok, I tested the receivers and they tested fine, (I see voltage when applied light with a flaslight) Now what I did is buy a replacement board on Ebay. This new board is supposed to be
working since it came out from a working machine. Now this is what happens during diagnostics:

10-1 no good (won't change to 0)

11-1 test good (1 changes to 0)

12-0 no good (this one shows a 0 instead on 1) and won't change with the popcycly test.

Here is a video of what happens when trying to clear the tilt:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xtbUUzrUYIM

I think the sensor board I bought is bad. 

[msaul]

The emitters are working. That's good.
I'm glad you took apart the sanswich.
Check the bottom hole of the black plastic encoder guide too, for debris, lint, dirt.
That also means the wires going to that particular circuit board on the sandwich is good too.

Now you need to check the receivers.
That's much different but you won't need to have it hooked up to the machine to check.
Watch this video I made...it's for door optic receivers but coin-in optics work the same way too.
You WILL need a multimeter to check the receivers and a flashlight of some sort.
There's no other way other than the popsicle stick/folded paper test - which you've already done.

So far, you've narrowed it down to a possible burned-out receiver optic at the "C" location.
Here's a link I made on how to test a receiver optic.
You'll have to figure out a way to touch each tab of a soldered optic probably from the backside and still have another hand to maneuver a flashlight?!
Kind of have to figure out which side is the anode and cathode.
and you need to have octopus arms!  ..>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/UxZiq-y4O90

Ok, I tested the receivers and they tested fine, (I see voltage when applied light with a flaslight) Now what I did is buy a replacement board on Ebay. This new board is supposed to be
working since it came out from a working machine. Now this is what happens during diagnostics:

10-1 no good (won't change to 0)

11-1 test good (1 changes to 0)

12-0 no good (this one shows a 0 instead on 1) and won't change with the popcycly test.

Here is a video of what happens when trying to clear the tilt:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xtbUUzrUYIM

I think the sensor board I bought is bad. 

[msaul]

The emitters are working. That's good.
I'm glad you took apart the sanswich.
Check the bottom hole of the black plastic encoder guide too, for debris, lint, dirt.
That also means the wires going to that particular circuit board on the sandwich is good too.

Now you need to check the receivers.
That's much different but you won't need to have it hooked up to the machine to check.
Watch this video I made...it's for door optic receivers but coin-in optics work the same way too.
You WILL need a multimeter to check the receivers and a flashlight of some sort.
There's no other way other than the popsicle stick/folded paper test - which you've already done.

So far, you've narrowed it down to a possible burned-out receiver optic at the "C" location.
Here's a link I made on how to test a receiver optic.
You'll have to figure out a way to touch each tab of a soldered optic probably from the backside and still have another hand to maneuver a flashlight?!
Kind of have to figure out which side is the anode and cathode.
and you need to have octopus arms!  ..>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/UxZiq-y4O90

Ok, I tested the receivers and they tested fine, (I see voltage when applied light with a flaslight) Now what I did is buy a replacement board on Ebay. This new board is supposed to be
working since it came out from a working machine. Now this is what happens during diagnostics:

10-1 no good (won't change to 0)

11-1 test good (1 changes to 0)

12-0 no good (this one shows a 0 instead on 1) and won't change with the popcycly test.

Here is a video of what happens when trying to clear the tilt:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xtbUUzrUYIM

I think the sensor board I bought is bad. 

Ok, I just removed Q4 from the new board and now when scrolling during diagnostics 10-1 and 11-1 are working but 12-1 shows up as 12-0 and doesn't change (0 to 1 or 1 to 0)

Here is a video:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/aJA4snySQnE