help me get started…total noob

[rokgpsman]

Don't forget to make certain all of your door switches and security switches are working right. A bad one can make your mpu think the door is open (or closed) when it isn't, affecting game play, starting the manual selftest, etc. I've seen switches that would push in or release normally but the contacts inside weren't working.

[Dbeeson]

I have a 15000uf 25v kicking around, that should be ok to swap the 12000 out with right?

[dhellis]

I have a 15000uf 25v kicking around, that should be ok to swap the 12000 out with right?

15,000 @25 volts should be fine

[Dbeeson]

Great, it's happily booting now with the cap change.

I took the cylinder and plunger off the reels, freed the plunger (that was a task) and cleaned it up. That's all happy again too.

So I'm still stuck with the 50 on the screen, and not able to do much. I have located the switch on the door (which disengages when the door is locked) and it functions correctly, and no broken wires. I've located a switch inside the bottom hinge of the machine that also detects the door being closed. It seems to be working fine, you can hear a click and the wires are attached.

There is 2 other strange things:
The coil that allows the crank arm to be cranked is always on. I'm assuming that's only supposed to engage when the game is ready to be played and has credits?

The other weird thing is the credit meter. It's always flickering, some segments dim, others bright. Maybe the big cap on that board in the head?

Fun stuff, I'm almost there!

[Amechanic]

I think it's section 3 of the manual explains how to use the machine to check your switches. I usually get ride of the lock switch. They are not needed and cause more problems then they are worth. Some times the lower hinge switches need to be adjusted in just a bit. If you put your machine in let's say test 2, can you exit the test by closing the door? You should be able too..

Gary

[rokgpsman]

You've made good progress. 


This is not unusual for an older slot machine that has set unmaintained for years, you get some major problems fixed, then on to the other ones. It is work but on the bright side it gets you really familiar with your machine. Down the road you'll be thankful for this experience if something else happens, you'll be able to better know what to check.

Electrolytic caps are cheap and all of them in your machine are nearly 30 years old (except the ones you recently replaced). So it is always ok to replace one, it might fix a problem or prevent a new one. I'd put a meter on any switch I wanted to check, they can click or move like normal but still not make good contact if the metal switch inside is corroded. And like Amechanic said, a lot of slot owners bypass or remove switches that can cause headaches. The casino required a lot of the switches just for security reasons, the home owner doesn't need that. I've disconnected cash box switches, circuit board compartment switches, main door switches, etc. If the machine requires the switch to work for certain functions that is different, but the ones that just do an alarm/tilt/fault can be bypassed or disconnected.   

The good news is you have a great resource with guys here like Amechanic and others (not me, I'm a noob on them) that are intimately experienced with your model machine. As long as you are willing to work on it, ask good questions and follow their advice you will come out on top. Now & then post a picture, it keeps the interest up & helps us to know your machine better.

[rokgpsman]

I was reading thru the manual for your machine and if I read it correctly if you see the decimal points lit in the main display (the 6 digit display) that means the mpu is in test mode. (I guess either the power-on test or the manual test). (if only the 2 centermost decimal points are lit it means a reset has happened recently).

Anyway, I think this means any numbers you see in the display when the decimal points are lit is a test fault code and you can consult the fault code list to see the meaning. Maybe someone can verify this about the decimal points being lit, and that normally they will not be lit. I've attached the first picture you posted, notice it has the decimal points lit. Granted, the mpu was acting up then because of power supply problems, but going forward I'd watch for decimal points to be displayed along with numbers.

Also, are you able now to open the door and use the manual test & reset pushbuttons on the hopper to run the more elaborate self-test? If not I'd be inclined to figure that out, once it is working it can be very helpful to test other parts of the machine.

[Dbeeson]

No more decimals. That was all before I rebuilt the power supply. I still get the 50 000 though. Meaning it thinks the door is open. I'm going to put a little time in on it now and see what the test mode is all about, which does work now.

[Dbeeson]

I spoke too soon. Now when I reset it there are 2 decimal points, and when the game senses the door closed switch (the one inside the machine, not the lock one) the game goes into tilt mode.

[Dbeeson]

Pic

[rokgpsman]

No more decimals. That was all before I rebuilt the power supply. I still get the 50 000 though. Meaning it thinks the door is open. I'm going to put a little time in on it now and see what the test mode is all about, which does work now.

Not sure, didn't the other guys say that 50 000 was normal on powerup until after the first play? The 50 portion just means the machine recorded a door open event, not necessarily that it thinks the door is still open. Remember, the casinos require the machines to record certain events like a door being opened for security reasons. I'm not sure the 50 000 is wrong.

I spoke too soon. Now when I reset it there are 2 decimal points, and when the game senses the door closed switch (the one inside the machine, not the lock one) the game goes into tilt mode.

I think the two center decimal points being lit just means that a mpu reset has happened recently, which happens when machine is powered down then back up and no game has been played to clear the display, or when you push the reset button down by the hopper. When just the two center decimal points are lit I don't think it is an error, just an advisory message. Your machine may be mostly working now, just needs to get a coin credit on it. Have you tried inserting any coins today? Also, remember you can flip dipswitch #8 on mpu so you can play a game and troubleshoot with the door open.

Does your machine have a reset keyswitch on the pull handle side of the cabinet? It is reset by turning a key in the switch (the infamous "2341" key), many slots have them. They are sometimes used to clear minor advisory faults & errors, and to reset the machine after a jackpot and ready the game for play. If your machine doesn't have a reset keyswitch on the side of the cabinet then probably that reset switch by the hopper is how they do it, but normally a slot machine has a reset keyswitch on the outside of machine to make it easier for casino personnel to do certain things and ready the game for play with the door closed. 

See the attachment below "How to start a new game". They open the door with power on, press the reset switch near the hopper, display shows 50 000. Next they close the door and machine is ready to play. That means the 50 000 will be on there until the coin is inserted and spin button is pressed.

That's a good idea to explore the manual self-test and get familiar with it. If you can get the machine to cycle thru the tests ok that will prove a lot of it is working ok.

The attached photo of the cabinet reset keyswitch below is an example, yours won't be exactly like this. Also, here's some info about the manual self-test and 50 000 display:

[rokgpsman]

see attached:

[Amechanic]

The 50 000 is normal in the win meter till you play your first spin. After that you should see what you won (if not you see zero), then how many coins played 1-3.. I would get rid of the door lock switch. These E2000 & E1000 machines can not be played with the doors open. Only in test 8.. If you try to coin the machine with the door open, it will go right into a tilt..

Gaty

[rokgpsman]

The 50 000 is normal in the win meter till you play your first spin. After that you should see what you won (if not you see zero), then how many coins played 1-3.. I would get rid of the door lock switch. These E2000 & E1000 machines can not be played with the doors open. Only in test 8.. If you try to coin the machine with the door open, it will go right into a tilt..
Gaty

Here's the page from the manual covering Self Test #8 that Amechanic is referring to:

[Dbeeson]

Ok interesting thing here. Everything seems as normal, close the door, push one of the front buttons, hear the coil engage so that I can crank it but then everything goes funky after that. The coil stays energizes as I guess the mpu thinks I have not yet cranked it. Soo... Switch test. Right off the bat it's not showing me the usual 3 ----- it says 3 580. But I don't get what the 580 code is. Obviously there's a switch problem somewhere. When I go to trigger a switch (like the credit switch) it often takes a long time for it to register 01, as it is being over ridden by 580. I think if I find out what the hell 580 means I'd be off to the races.

[Dbeeson]

Pic

[Dbeeson]

Now it's working fine (for no reason) but I don't trust it for long

[Amechanic]

I was just wondering if you have checked your doors buttons to make sure none are sticking? If you have a slow or stick switch that could cause problems.. You do know that dhellis here has a tester for the Bally MPU and IO.. If you send him a PM, he will give to prices if your interested? 

Gary

[rokgpsman]

Ok interesting thing here. Everything seems as normal, close the door, push one of the front buttons, hear the coil engage so that I can crank it but then everything goes funky after that. The coil stays energizes as I guess the mpu thinks I have not yet cranked it. Soo... Switch test. Right off the bat it's not showing me the usual 3 ----- it says 3 580. But I don't get what the 580 code is. Obviously there's a switch problem somewhere. When I go to trigger a switch (like the credit switch) it often takes a long time for it to register 01, as it is being over ridden by 580. I think if I find out what the hell 580 means I'd be off to the races.

I think the 500 series codes in Test #3 refer to the dipswitch on the mpu. Specifically, the "5" is for the dipswitch, and the "80" means dipswitch #8. Can you double-check the dipswitch settings, maybe flip them on & off a few times, see if they are spongy or soft or intermittent? Dipswitch #8 should be ON for normal game operation.

Notice that in your photo all the decimal points are lit. This means the mpu is in test mode, test #3 and the fault code is 580.

[rokgpsman]

ok, I looked at the dipswitch on the mpu schematic and I'm confused. The schematic (portion attached below) shows that only mpu dipswitch 1-6 are connected, switches 7 & 8 are not connected. But the diagram from the Bally E-2000 book shows that dipswitch #8 is used to select troubleshooting mode or normal play. Maybe this was a revision on later mpu boards. Can you verify the part number on your mpu board? And if you ever take the mpu board out you can see if there are traces that connect to dipswitch #8?