Bally 1114 full restoration

[David Walz]

Anyone have suggestions on how to rebuild this chime? All of the rubber is dried up. 

[David Walz]

The bell wasn't working, I cleaned the contacts, checked out the solenoid, everything works excellent.

[David Walz]

The chime was frozen, I was able to take this apart, clean the unit, then I was able to source the rubber pieces that were falling apart.

[David Walz]

RESTORATION
In regards to restoring this machine (like my other machines) I am not satisfied with "just getting it running". I am spending a whole lot of hours researching this machine, checking each part to make sure it is correct. I am cleaning each and every part, or sourcing a missing or incorrect part. Now, I am going to have to fabricate a hopper cover for the machine, since they are unavailable.

When I have a project that was rusted like this 1114, I source out parts that are not rusted, or clean the parts and remove the rust. The bottom of the slot machine was rusted badly, I was able to completely remove the rust, every screw was replaced, or cleaned up, removing the shell exposed more issues. The payout counter was frozen, I had to dig through my supplies to find the correct frame, parts, to rebuild it. The solenoids were replaced.

The handle release assembly was in poor condition, the switches were bent, the parts were frozen.

The reel assembly was rusted, everything was stripped down to the last screw. I had muck to remove from all of the parts, every switch was cleaned, tested, the wipers were cleaned, missing parts sourced, and then I discovered that the reel tapes, steel plates were incorrect. I was fortunate enough to locate all of the parts, and restoring the reels was time consuming, just like the rest of the machine.

I replaced all of the bulbs, repaired, replaced the bad sockets. The wiring that was bad was not patched, it was replaced with the same exact wiring. I ordered the same exact wiring for the machine, which was a undertaking.

The hopper was missing, I built a new hopper for the machine, thankfully my other slot machine has a identical hopper, so I basically made sure everything matched up, wire for wire, part for part, screw for screw.

Yes I am anal about the restoration of my slot machines, yes I may spend to much time on the research, and I have a tendency to not settle for less than 100%. Furthermore, I spend a lot of time sourcing out other 1114 machines comparing each one to figure out what they have and what I am missing.

David

 

[David Walz]

Working on the door switch, I am making sure everything is working. Problem is that I can't find what the 85 wire, 14 wire goes to. 

[David Walz]

 

BTW:
Wolftalk sent me a awesome link to the index wheels and reel tapes. Photos of: a placement of the tapes, the depths of the index wheels, how to use the hole in the index wheels to align up the reel tapes.

https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_info/reel_strip_positioning/

[David Walz]

Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.

[David Walz]

On to the door switch, it's working, I checked out the switch, contacts, etc. It is alive and well.

[David Walz]

So, I have a option, to install a candle or not. I have the wiring harness for the candle set up and ready.

Since I don't have the holes on the outside of the cabinet, it's a toss up.

[David Walz]

I took Wolftalk advice about the hopper cut off.

I moved it up, giving it more room underneath the ice cube relay, this will prevent any accidents by being to close to the frame. 

[David Walz]

I worked on the winner meter, I had no idea that it would work. The wires were ripped off of the winner meter, I had to disassemble the winner meter and install new wires. I started to run the machine and focus on the winning meter and after a couple of changes  it's working. I also repaired the winner light, and it's functioning as per the specifications.

 

[David Walz]

These slot machines can take a lot of abuse, and keep on working. Admittedly they need a good cleaning, service, adjustments, after 40 years, but they are like bullet proof. From my experience with these slot machines, the reel assembly is the most problematic, with the crud, dried grease, and the only way to solve the problem is to disassemble the reel assembly clean everything.

[wolftalk]

Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.

reset fuse?

I think that's supposed to be a push button.   The pushbutton is needed to power the hopper cutoff relay if the hopper ran out of coins and was refilled during a payout.

[David Walz]

Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.

reset fuse?

I think that's supposed to be a push button.   The pushbutton is needed to power the hopper cutoff relay if the hopper ran out of coins and was refilled during a payout.

I am confused. "Reset button switch" I assumed it was a fuse reset. You didn't explain this before when I enquired about it. More work and moving on.

[David Walz]

Moving on to the next problem. 
The hopper level has been working since I started applying power to the machine, without fail. Today it quit working, I checked out the: coil, hopper, hopper plug, everything is working OK. Now I need to check out the wiring from the hopper to the coil on the door plug.

You just can't make this **** up.

[David Walz]

Tomorrow is when Monti Slots packages arrives and more work will be done with the slot machine. It will be awesome to finally have the correct $1 reels, steel index wheels, coin bowl assembly for the machine.

That reel tape alignment will take time to install it perfectly, I have several points of reference to go by to get it correct. 

The coin bowl assembly will need to match up the new Formica so it's going to be a busy time for me. 

[David Walz]

Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.

[David Walz]

I have a inquiry about the $1 coins. "Eisenhower dollar was a 1.5 inch round one-dollar coin issued by the United States Mint from 1971 to 1978". Those coins are difficult and costly to locate.

I found 200, NOS $1 tokens from the Silver Dollar Saloon and Casino in Las Vegas, which are 1.5 inches round, in mint condition, and they are an excellent addition for the slot machine.

[wolftalk]

Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.

oh, that thing.

I've not seen a switch that looks like that before.  I've only seen the metal pushbuttons mounted on a L-bracket (e.g 2400 manual, page 28, parts #14-15).  It's functionally correct assuming your wires are on the normally open and common terminals of the switch.

if you had a fuse connecting wires 30 and 97 that are on that switch, the hopper cutoff relay would always be powered if the fuse wasn't blown.  If you are having problems with the HCR staying powered after putting the switch back in, you have a switch issue elsewhere.

the HCR should power when you push the button or when the handle release relay trips, and stay powered forever unless there's a problem with the payout counter stepping during a payout (e.g. hopper runs out of coins).

[David Walz]

Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.

oh, that thing.

I've not seen a switch that looks like that before.  I've only seen the metal pushbuttons mounted on a L-bracket (e.g 2400 manual, page 28, parts #14-15).  It's functionally correct assuming your wires are on the normally open and common terminals of the switch.

if you had a fuse connecting wires 30 and 97 that are on that switch, the hopper cutoff relay would always be powered if the fuse wasn't blown.  If you are having problems with the HCR staying powered after putting the switch back in, you have a switch issue elsewhere.

the HCR should power when you push the button or when the handle release relay trips, and stay powered forever unless there's a problem with the payout counter stepping during a payout (e.g. hopper runs out of coins).

The hopper is running great, not missing the beat, spits out coins, the win meter is spot on. Life is good, I have had a lot of gremlins that I have been solving. Funny thing, the only issue with the hopper was the ice cube relay, other than that its a beast, and I already said that diodes, resistors, capacitors are my weakness in working on radios, and now hoppers. 

I never quit anything, I will succeed no matter what the obstacle is in front of me.