Display on a Bally slot model 1088

[DavidLee]

I've heard the win meter was the first thing to be removed. If it was off 1 coin the player would press the service button.
Built my own win meter just to fill the space on a 1090 as the originals are hard to find and to expensive.

[Amechanic]

Thanks David...

[filounet]

Too strong 

[rdaniel]

Does anybody know when Bally ceased using the old style win meters and switched to digital? I thought that all EM's had the old style counters and the E series began using digital.

rdaniel

[Amechanic]

I think the replacement win meters were digital.

[Amechanic]

I've heard the win meter was the first thing to be removed. If it was off 1 coin the player would press the service button.
Built my own win meter just to fill the space on a 1090 as the originals are hard to find and to expensive.

David.. How hard was it to build that meter? Ever thought about building some for sale?

[RiseLikeRa]

Although the name is already taken online  Dave is OUR Wizard of Odds!  He can fabricate or create anything!


Ra

[DavidLee]

Gary,

It takes a good 6 to 8 hours to build a counter and another 5 hours to install.
The original counter was a digital kit with a count up button and a reset button.
Had to move the digital displays to the end of the board at 90 degrees. Hard wire / rewiring was needed to make the connection after the move.
Built a box from Plexiglass to hold 2 circuit boards and the digital displays.
Added mounting tabs and remade the cover for that part of the machine.
Installed a solid state relay for switching and a power supply as this unit runs on low voltage.
The relay installation is kind of raw as I wasn't sure if it was going to work.
I think I used the payout counter circuit to count up and the insert coin to reset the counter back to zeros.
Seems complicated now, but step by step somehow I got it accomplished.
If this were to be reproduced, it would be easier to dismantle an original one and make new ones from scratch. Using modern technology.
Most likely it would be smaller and brighter.
If I were ever to do it again, I would probably just convert the 48 volts to 5 volts dc before it enters the counter.
And use the existing Bally wires. As to eliminate the relay and power supply.
 

[Amechanic]

Yikes!! I didn’t think it was that complicated. Nice job done.

[DavidLee]

If you have or acquirer a counter and would like to donate it for research.
  I would like to preform a little dissecting operation.

[Amechanic]

No I don’t have any currently.