New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: elweedz on September 14, 2015, 11:29:36 AM
-
Hello all,
Just purchased off craigslist with known issue. Lady said they need to be reset but it didnt sound like she really knew what or how to do so. Both do the same thing. The light on top flashes non-stop. The coin just passed thru when you insert it. The triple diamond, when i pull the lever, it moves then makes a "knock" sound when it reaches the bottom. The reels dont spin. There dont appear to be any error codes. I can make some numbers appear under the credits but they dont do anything. Would greatly appreciate any help you can give. She had 3 other machines that all do the same thing. Seems like there is some common error on all 5 machines.
-
First thing I'd do is turn the machine off, pull the processor board out (it's in the lower cabinet behind the coin hopper) and check the cmos batteries. If they are dead, replace them and go from there. Some resetting will be required and info on that can be found in the IGT s+ topic forum here on NLG
-
Cowboy,
Thanks for the quick reply. While I am an engineer, I know startling little of computers/electronics. Am I in danger of really screwing this thing up or is your suggestion a fairly easy one? I have habit of making things worse when i try to fix them. Are there any "make sure you dont do this" things i need to know about your suggestion?
-
The biggest thing is to make sure the machine is powered off whenever removing or installing plugs or boards on these machines. Second is to make sure you pull straight up on the board when removing it and push straight down when installing it. Once the board is out, use a multimeter to check the voltage on the battery. If I remember right it is 1/2AA and 3.6v. Low voltage = bad battery
-
Welcome to NLG, make sure you have the polarity correct when installing the new battery.
-
And while you have the mpu board out of the machine give it a good inspection. Look at the old battery to see if there is any corrosion around it. And check both sides of the board for anything like water damage, mouse droppings, etc. If you see anything you want to double-check just take a photo of it and attach the photo to a message. (click on the "Attachments" link below any message you are posting).
Welcome to NLG ! :wave:
-
Keep the boards off of any static friendly surfaces too.
Dave F
-
All - again thanks for the usefull tips. So far I have identified the only thing that i can see as battery. It says LS 14250 on it. I ordered two off amazon so it will be a week before i can update my progress. Looks like they need to be soldered to the board. Here is where I start making small problems a big one. :duh:
-
That's the battery, one per board. What voltage reading did you get off them? Secondly, if you have a Batteries+ store near you then they likely have the battery and can change it for you
-
They both read less than .25 volts. Just reliazed i do have those stores but amazon said they already shipped. These machines are both circa 95 so maybe these are the originals? i dont know.
-
btw- called the battery place. They dont sell the "tabbed" version of the battery which you need to weld to the mother board. They would have to order them.
-
If you've already ordered 1\2 AA "untabbed" batteries, you can get holders that solder in easily. They're all over eBay. Just pick one that's not in China or you might have to wait a long time!
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pan8k8OjIgM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pan8k8OjIgM)
Here's a video of how to change out a battery on a mpu board. This will help.
Dave
-
Hi ALL,
So i got the new cmos batteries installed and confirmed voltage at the solder points. I put it all back together and both machines still just let the coin pass directly thru the coin slot. I checked the coin comparitors and it they both have a coin that is the same as the token that i am using. Ideas???
Side note - triple diamonds still have big siren light flashing.
-
OK you changed the batteries. Then you got 61? Then you turned key for 61-1? Then you closed the door and turned key? Did the reels then spin right to left and stop? Is the coins played flashing? Are the reels stiff when powered on? A picture of machine turned on and what you think is ready to play would be great. Also a picture of you coin comparator. The more we see the more we can help.
-
Have you checked the fuses in the lower part of machine? Make sure they are all good. The power switch inside the machine is ON, right? When you first turn the machine on do the reels spin for their initialization? And do the other lights on the machine come on, like the main fluorescent lights, button lights?
-
didnt check fuses. Didnt know they exist. Can you help me out with there specific location?
Power switch-check
When i first power triple diamonds, it does spin. Red white and blue does not.
Triple diamonds top siren is on, the flourescent wheel lights are on the top part of the machine lights are on. The LED lights that indicate credits and such are working. Button lights are not on.
-
didnt check fuses. Didnt know they exist. Can you help me out with there specific location?
Power switch-check
When i first power triple diamonds, it does spin. Red white and blue does not.
Triple diamonds top siren is on, the flourescent wheel lights are on the top part of the machine lights are on. The LED lights that indicate credits and such are working. Button lights are not on.
I don't have a photo of S+ machine fuses handy but found the photo that is attached below. So keep in mind yours probably looks different than this example photo below.
When fixing a machine you've never had before you will need to check all the basics and power is one of them. The 115vac comes in from your wall outlet and inside the machine it is used to power a few things like the 115v fluorescent lights. The 115v also goes to a power supply that makes the lower voltages needed by the machine such as button lights, coin comparator, reel motors to spin the wheels, etc. The power supply is protected from electrical shorts by fuses, so if any of those fuses are blown it will cause certain parts of the machine to not have power.
The fuses are generally in the lower part of the machine cabinet. They have round caps on the top, usually black but sometimes are white. You twist the cap and remove it, the fuse is inside. Sometimes the fuses are mounted near the power ON/OFF switch. There should be a label near each fuse saying what size the fuse should be. The fuse will be a clear glass tube with a narrow filament inside. The best way to check the fuse is with a meter, but often you can tell when looking at one that it is blown.
If you can post a few photos of the inside of your machine it would help us to know what you have exactly and we can more easily help. Take a photo showing the inside of the main door, the lower area where the hopper is and the entire machine with the door wide open. Thanks!
-
Here's another photo, I think this is from an S+, it shows the 3 fuses mounted on a metal box in lower part of machine. Be sure to have the machine unplugged when checking fuses. Even if the machine's internal power switch is OFF there is still electrical power in some pats of the machine that is coming in from the line cord. (if power cord is plugged into a power strip you can safely remove power with the power strip switch)
-
Roks first pic is an S slot the second is an early S+ and here is a later S+. It's under the bill stacker.
-
Thanks Shaggy! Looks like a common theme for the various IGT S and S+ machines is that the fuses are near the electrical service outlet and that there are 3 fuses. Just to make certain it is clear for the OP I noted the fuses on your photo.
-
Yes sir they seem to keep them close to the power. The later is nice as you don't have to remove the hopper. :cool_thumb_up:
-
All fuses check out on multimeter :Scratch-Head:
The first two pics are red white and blue
The next three are triple diamonds.
And i forgot to unplug machine before fuse check but did flick the little inner power button off.
Neither machine has the guts for the dollar bill changer.
-
We need more detail on what the machines are doing when you turn them on. What lights come on? What, if anything do the reels do? Do they stiffen or stay easy to turn by hand? What is showing in the credit display windows? Do they make any noise? With the info we have so far it's like expecting a accurate diagnosis from the doctor after telling him over the phone you don't feel good
-
Rob, I was glad to see the inner door picture, but also want to see what is lit on the front.
-
Lets start with Triple diamonds.
When i power up the wheels spin and stop on their own. The pics show the lights. Note the bottom yellow siren blinks non stop in rapid fashion (much faster than car blinker), the white siren is solid. When i open door, i can spin the wheels and they make a click feel to them in either direction. Within a second or two of me doing so, they spin again. If i leave them alone, they stay where they are. I cannot pull the handle. Let me know if more is needed.
Flipped the pictures upright. -knagl
-
Now Red white and blue.
Power up and lights come on but wheels dont spin. I mispoke earlier. This one does have dollar bill changer guts and the guts make noise like they searching for a dollar. This noise persists several times before it stops. The wheels dont spin on there own. They do move freely with less clicky feel than the Trip diamonds. They dont do anything after i spin them though.
-
Well, let's start with the easy one. On your Red White and Blue machine, the very likely culprit is the power connector cable and its molex connector that goes between the power supply and the motherboard on the inside of the machine, behind the hopper. Please read the following post (and the links in the replies to the post) to solve your issue with the Red White and Blue machine:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0)
-
Triple diamonds.
When i power up the wheels spin and stop on their own. The pics show the lights. Note the bottom yellow siren blinks non stop in rapid fashion (much faster than car blinker), the white siren is solid.
The reels spinning on their own and then coming to a stop after a power-up is normal. It's referred to as the "maiden spin" around here -- it's the machine testing everything and then setting the reels to the last play result.
The white light at the top of the candle (the light tower on the top of the machine) is the "Change/Service" light. If you press the far left button on the player panel which is labeled "Service" (or sometimes "Change"), it will toggle that lamp on and off. Its purpose is to signal to a casino employee that the customer sitting at that machine needs assistance.
The yellow light on the bottom of the candle when rapidly flashing is indicating that the machine has just been turned on, and/or that the door has been opened. It will stop blinking rapidly once a paid game has been completed.
The Triple Diamond machine looks like it's ready to accept a coin and play normally (save for the fact that the fluorescent lamp on the door that lights up the reels is burnt out). In fact, the "insert coin" lamp is on, so that's a good sign.
What happens when you insert a coin?
Do you have a sample coin in the Coin Comparator in the door? If not, you need to put one in there. If you do and coins are being rejected to the tray, you need to ensure that the sample coin is seated properly, and you may need to adjust the sensitivity of the comparator to make it less likely to reject coins. Instructions on how to do so can be found by clicking here (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10759.msg93615#msg93615).
-
...... I cannot pull the handle.....
…..Now Red white and blue.
This one does have dollar bill changer guts and the guts make noise like they searching for a dollar. This noise persists several times before it stops……
I'm pretty sure the machine will not allow the handle to be pulled until it has accepted a coin, or you have credits on the machine from inserting a bill or previous wins and have pressed a button to make a bet.
When the machine is powered up it is normal for the bill acceptor to go thru its own initialization process. It will make motor and gear sounds during this time. This is actually a good sign, it might be working ok once you get other things fixed.
-
Having changed the battery the validator likely won't accept bills till it is "turned on" using a set chip. If you already have a sample coin installed and coins still drop through you might try cleaning the coin path through the comparitor and coin optics mounted below it
-
knagl- looks like you might be on to something. Pls see the pic. I will replace/rework and let you know what i find. Thanks.
Fixed font size issue. -knagl
-
That burnt connector is your problem on that machine. On your other machine you will see a very small white button just under the coin comparator. If you push it, it should give you a test credit and you can spin the reels using the "spin reels button" with the door open. If you are able to spin the reels with the door closed after giving it a test credit, let us know.
-
First let me reiterate, i am stunned at the amount of support that i am getting. I never imagined it would be such an overwhelming and quick response from all of you. Having trouble keeping up with all the great suggestions in fact. Thank you so much for the support. Will be making a donation regardless of outcome. So i followed the burnt link thing and cleaned both contacts with sandpaper and then wd on a qtip. When i powered back on (RWB), it did not spin the reels. It did the dollar bill thing and now the two sirens are lit on this one. Bottom blinking faster than the top. The led first read "61" (see pic). So i opened back up hit the reset button and the thing made a ding sound and now says 61 1 on the displays as shown. Have not tried coin comparator ideas on either. Just updating as i go.
-
That burnt connector is your problem on that machine. On your other machine you will see a very small white button just under the coin comparator. If you push it, it should give you a test credit and you can spin the reels using the "spin reels button" with the door open. If you are able to spin the reels with the door closed after giving it a test credit, let us know.
Triple diamonds- hit white button. Gives me credit. Allows me to spin using arm or button. Tells me coin accepted and one credit played. Now only bottom siren is lit solid. Wont do anything else new.
-
trip diam probably has door optic problem not aligning. Put a piece of painter tape on the machine side and mark where the optic is then put a piece on the door side and mark that optic. Now close door and latch all the way down and check marks. Your 61-1 is waiting for you to close and latch door then turn jp key and should boot.
-
k -making some progress
RWB- now works after clearing codes but only allows me to put three coins in before they all just pass thru.
Trip diamonds- i tried lining up door sensors, they seem lined up to me but dont know precision needed. I dont remember how but i got it to cylcle thru a bunch of numbers on all the LED screens. It kept going until i stopped it. Havent been able to duplicate it. Currently has bottom siren light blinking. Allows coins to pass thru.
-
RWB that is normal for an S+. It will only accept the number of coins totaling a max bet, unless you tokenize, which is not a common setup coming out of casinos. The only way to typically rackup credits, is to either win them, or put them there through the validator. You cannot accumulate credits by dropping coins, other than the next max play bet.
Trip Diamonds, do you have anything on the LED displays when you open/close the latch. Do the reels spins, are they stiff to the touch or spin freely when the door is open?
-
If you remove the reel glass you can line up the sensors good. There a 2 wires going to each sensor, are they both attached and plugged in?
-
RWB: As Rick said, that's normal behavior for the machine to only accept coins up to the maximum bet and then reject all others. It sounds like that machine is working properly -- good job! :cool_thumb_up:
Triple Diamond:
Hold on before you start removing the reel glass. I don't think the optics are the problem here.
You can confirm if the door optics are working by telling us what happens when you close and latch the door. In your picture of the Triple Diamond machine there's a "0" in the Coins Played LED display. Watch that display as you close and latch the door. If it goes blank for a second or two and then the "0" pops back up, that confirms that your door optics are working fine (typical behavior is for the displays to go blank for a second or two once the door is closed and latched, and the only thing that triggers that to happen is the door optics being aligned).
Trip diamonds- .... Currently has bottom siren light blinking. Allows coins to pass thru.
Again, the bottom candle light blinking rapidly is just an indicator that the machine has recently been powered on and/or the door has been opened and a paid game hasn't been completed yet. When you say that coins are "passing thru" -- are you saying that they're rejected back to the tray for the player to grab, or are they going through the machine and into the hopper? If they're being rejected to the tray, I noticed in Reply #33 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8118.msg43691#msg43691) that you said you haven't yet adjusted the coin comparator. Please follow the steps I suggested in Reply #28 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8118.msg43648#msg43648), specifically ensuring that the sample coin is seated properly, and adjusting the sensitivity so it is less likely to reject coins.
On a final note, in the future please consider starting separate threads for multiple machines -- it's a little tough to keep up with multiple machines in one thread. :propeller:
-
RWB: As Rick said, that's normal behavior for the machine to only accept coins up to the maximum bet and then reject all others. It sounds like that machine is working properly -- good job! :cool_thumb_up:
Triple Diamond:
Hold on before you start removing the reel glass. I don't think the optics are the problem here.
You can confirm if the door optics are working by telling us what happens when you close and latch the door. In your picture of the Triple Diamond machine there's a "0" in the Coins Played LED display. Watch that display as you close and latch the door. If it goes blank for a second or two and then the "0" pops back up, that confirms that your door optics are working fine (typical behavior is for the displays to go blank for a second or two once the door is closed and latched, and the only thing that triggers that to happen is the door optics being aligned).
Trip diamonds- .... Currently has bottom siren light blinking. Allows coins to pass thru.
Again, the bottom candle light blinking rapidly is just an indicator that the machine has recently been powered on and/or the door has been opened and a paid game hasn't been completed yet. When you say that coins are "passing thru" -- are you saying that they're rejected back to the tray for the player to grab, or are they going through the machine and into the hopper? If they're being rejected to the tray, I noticed in Reply #33 ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8118.msg43691#msg43691[/url]) that you said you haven't yet adjusted the coin comparator. Please follow the steps I suggested in Reply #28 ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8118.msg43648#msg43648[/url]), specifically ensuring that the sample coin is seated properly, and adjusting the sensitivity so it is less likely to reject coins.
On a final note, in the future please consider starting separate threads for multiple machines -- it's a little tough to keep up with multiple machines in one thread. :propeller:
Hi Guys-
Sorry for the delayed response. Been getting pulled in a lot of directions. From this point forward, will only discuss triple diamonds to keep it simple. The optic on the door do as you indicated with the 0 going blank and then returning. Also, i followed the instructions for coin comparator that was provided on the link and cannot get the coin to stop falling directly thru to the catch try (not the hopper).
Fixed a broken quote box. -knagl
-
RWB that is normal for an S+. It will only accept the number of coins totaling a max bet, unless you tokenize, which is not a common setup coming out of casinos. The only way to typically rackup credits, is to either win them, or put them there through the validator. You cannot accumulate credits by dropping coins, other than the next max play bet.
Trip Diamonds, do you have anything on the LED displays when you open/close the latch. Do the reels spins, are they stiff to the touch or spin freely when the door is open?
The wheels spin freely i guess. There is a steady clicky feel to them though. The other machine had the same clicky feel but not as pronounced.
-
I guess my real question should have been, if you "flip" the reel, does it spin freely or is it "stiff". Compare how it feels with the power off. If it feels the same, there's an issue with either the MPU or there no power to the reels.
-
He showed a picture of the famous burnt connector from power supply. Post 31
-
The optic on the door do as you indicated with the 0 going blank and then returning.
Okay, that confirms that your door optics are aligned and are working properly.
If coins are still getting rejected to the tray even after making sure that the sample coin is seated properly and that the sensitivity is turned down, you could try swapping in your known good coin comparator from your working machine to see if the problem machine then accepts coins. If it works with the replacement comparator, we know where the problem is. Make sure to have the machines turned off when removing or plugging in parts.
For Rick and Elvis, he's reporting that he has a "0" in the Coins Played window (which responds appropriately when he closes the door). I don't think there'd be anything in the display if the power connector was the issue. :no:
-
He showed a picture of the famous burnt connector from power supply. Post 31
the burnt connector was from RWB which is now working. I now am seeing why listing both machines was an issue. Will try coin comparator swap and report back in a couple days when i get home.
-
Hello-
SOrry i went incognito for awhile. Had other items that needed my attention for awhile but am back to the slots. Anyway. The RWB machine was working fine but now makes an annoying humming sound when turned on. It doesnt do it when i open the door so i cant tell where its coming from. Its like a low buzz. Any idears?
-
Hello-
SOrry i went incognito for awhile. Had other items that needed my attention for awhile but am back to the slots. Anyway. The RWB machine was working fine but now makes an annoying humming sound when turned on. It doesnt do it when i open the door so i cant tell where its coming from. Its like a low buzz. Any idears?
You can check the fluorescent lights and their ballast, they can sometimes hum or buzz.
-
Don't 16mhz boards make an annoying hum?
-
Don't 16mhz boards make an annoying hum?
That's right, I think I read that somewhere, I haven't been around one of them though. I did have a lamp ballast that was mounted a little loose and it was vibrating and making a noise. I found a photo from earlier in this thread of his mpu, it has a volume control so it is a 10mhz board, right?
-
Yeah, volume knob = 10 Mhz.
Remember the early days when people used to think that knob was to make the machine tighter?! :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:
-
If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.
-
Yep it's a 10.
-
If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.
OOP'S.If your BUZZ goes away. Bad grammar and bad spelling.
-
If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.
it goes away once i hit the bet one button 3x but only if i hit it 3x, not 1 or 2
-
If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.
OOP'S.If your BUZZ goes away. Bad grammar and bad spelling.
So if you still agree on your coin rake diagnosis, where is this thing? How do i fix it? Thanks for your help.
-
It's on the backside of the coin comparitor
-
It's on the backside of the coin comparitor
Any idea how i get a new one? I assume it needs replacing? How do i identify it?
-
when the rake buzz's that usually indicates the voltage in the cc-16 is lower that 19 vdc, and the large cap needs to be replaced. that usually will fix 99% of them.
I could repair it for you or you could replace the cc-16 with a know good working one. pm me for cost to do this.
Jim
-
is the the cap to replace or the tan and black one?
-
That blue part with the colored bands I think you are touching or pointing to is a resistor, there are several of them on that board. The large gray part is a capacitor. There may be other capacitors on the board not in the photo but that is what they look like.
-
Or you can unplug the solenoid and tie the rake back. Any coin will pass thru is the only negative. I had an extra coin in assembly to replace the one on my signature custom machine. Just noticed I should change the reel glass to black. Wow 3 years and just saw it.
-
That blue part with the colored bands I think you are touching or pointing to is a resistor, there are several of them on that board. The large gray part is a capacitor. There may be other capacitors on the board not in the photo but that is what they look like.
Thank you. Realized after i posted that i was showing my drunk side. :rotfl: :rotfl:
-
This is what therockinelvis is referring to. The back of the coin comparitor has a part called the "rake" due to what it resembles. The rake is spring loaded so that it normally is in the coin path and causes the inserted coin to be rejected. If the coin comparitor accepts the coin as legit then the rake solenoid gets power applied to it and the rake is moved out of the way of the coin so it will be accepted into the machine optics or whatever is next in the "good" coin path.
Here is an old coin comparitor with the rake wedged open with my voter registration card just to show how it's done. If you decide to do this I'd tie back or wedge open the rake more permanently. Also, as therockinelvis said, you can still get the solenoid buzz noise unless you disconnect it.
Or you can just get another coin comparitor, good used ones are not that costly.
-
when the rake buzz's that usually indicates the voltage in the cc-16 is lower that 19 vdc, and the large cap needs to be replaced. that usually will fix 99% of them.
Jim
Winner winner chicken dinner. Works perfectly now and wasnt a difficult repair. Thanks DOC! Now back to the triple diamonds.
-
What is the triple diamond doing?
Jim