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Author Topic: Two used machines, 1995 triple diamonds, red white and blue- power but no worky  (Read 20476 times)

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Offline elweedz

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RWB: As Rick said, that's normal behavior for the machine to only accept coins up to the maximum bet and then reject all others.  It sounds like that machine is working properly -- good job!   :cool_thumb_up:


Triple Diamond:

Hold on before you start removing the reel glass.  I don't think the optics are the problem here.

You can confirm if the door optics are working by telling us what happens when you close and latch the door.  In your picture of the Triple Diamond machine there's a "0" in the Coins Played LED display.  Watch that display as you close and latch the door.  If it goes blank for a second or two and then the "0" pops back up, that confirms that your door optics are working fine (typical behavior is for the displays to go blank for a second or two once the door is closed and latched, and the only thing that triggers that to happen is the door optics being aligned).


Trip diamonds- .... Currently has bottom siren light blinking.  Allows coins to pass thru.

Again, the bottom candle light blinking rapidly is just an indicator that the machine has recently been powered on and/or the door has been opened and a paid game hasn't been completed yet.  When you say that coins are "passing thru" -- are you saying that they're rejected back to the tray for the player to grab, or are they going through the machine and into the hopper?  If they're being rejected to the tray, I noticed in Reply #33 that you said you haven't yet adjusted the coin comparator.  Please follow the steps I suggested in Reply #28, specifically ensuring that the sample coin is seated properly, and adjusting the sensitivity so it is less likely to reject coins.


On a final note, in the future please consider starting separate threads for multiple machines -- it's a little tough to keep up with multiple machines in one thread.   :propeller:



Hi Guys-
Sorry for the delayed response.  Been getting pulled in a lot of directions.  From this point forward, will only discuss triple diamonds to keep it simple.   The optic on the door do as you indicated with the 0 going blank and then returning.   Also, i followed the instructions for coin comparator that was provided on the link and cannot get the coin to stop falling directly thru to the catch try (not the hopper).



Fixed a broken quote box.  -knagl
« Last Edit: September 30, 2015, 01:31:08 AM by knagl »

Offline elweedz

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RWB that is normal for an S+. It will only accept the number of coins totaling a max bet, unless you tokenize, which is not a common setup coming out of casinos.  The only way to typically rackup credits, is to either win them, or put them there through the validator.  You cannot accumulate credits by dropping coins, other than the next max play bet.


Trip Diamonds, do you have anything on the LED displays when you open/close the latch.  Do the reels spins, are they stiff to the touch or spin freely when the door is open?


The wheels spin freely i guess.  There is a steady  clicky feel to them though.  The other machine had the same clicky feel but not as pronounced.

Offline rickhunter

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I guess my real question should have been, if you "flip" the reel, does it spin freely or is it "stiff".  Compare how it feels with the power off.  If it feels the same, there's an issue with either the MPU or there no power to the reels.
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Offline therockinelvis

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He showed a picture of the famous burnt connector from power supply. Post 31
Thank Ya Thank Ya Very Much.

the rockin elvis

Offline knagl

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The optic on the door do as you indicated with the 0 going blank and then returning. 

Okay, that confirms that your door optics are aligned and are working properly.

If coins are still getting rejected to the tray even after making sure that the sample coin is seated properly and that the sensitivity is turned down, you could try swapping in your known good coin comparator from your working machine to see if the problem machine then accepts coins.  If it works with the replacement comparator, we know where the problem is.  Make sure to have the machines turned off when removing or plugging in parts.


For Rick and Elvis, he's reporting that he has a "0" in the Coins Played window (which responds appropriately when he closes the door).  I don't think there'd be anything in the display if the power connector was the issue.   :no:
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Offline elweedz

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He showed a picture of the famous burnt connector from power supply. Post 31


the burnt connector was from RWB which is now working.  I now am seeing why listing both machines was an issue.  Will try coin comparator swap and report back in a couple days when i get home.

Offline elweedz

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Hello-


SOrry i went incognito for  awhile.    Had other items that needed my attention for awhile but am back to the slots.   Anyway.  The RWB machine was working fine but now makes an annoying humming sound when turned on.   It doesnt do it when i open the door so i cant tell where its coming from. Its like a low buzz.   Any idears?

Offline rokgpsman

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Hello-

SOrry i went incognito for  awhile.    Had other items that needed my attention for awhile but am back to the slots.   Anyway.  The RWB machine was working fine but now makes an annoying humming sound when turned on.   It doesnt do it when i open the door so i cant tell where its coming from. Its like a low buzz.   Any idears?

You can check the fluorescent lights and their ballast, they can sometimes hum or buzz.
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Offline Shaggy

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Don't 16mhz boards make an annoying hum?
"All things being equal. The easiest explanation and the easiest answer is probably the right one".

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Don't 16mhz boards make an annoying hum?

That's right, I think I read that somewhere, I haven't been around one of them though. I did have a lamp ballast that was mounted a little loose and it was vibrating and making a noise. I found a photo from earlier in this thread of his mpu, it has a volume control so it is a 10mhz board, right?
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Offline rickhunter

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Yeah, volume knob = 10 Mhz.


Remember the early days when people used to think that knob was to make the machine tighter?!  :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:
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If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.
Thank Ya Thank Ya Very Much.

the rockin elvis

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Yep it's a 10.
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If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.

OOP'S.If your BUZZ goes away. Bad grammar and bad spelling.
Thank Ya Thank Ya Very Much.

the rockin elvis

Offline elweedz

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If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.


it goes away once i hit the bet one button 3x but only if i hit it 3x, not 1 or 2

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If you buss goes away when the bet 1 button is pressed then it would be the solenoid on the coin rake.

OOP'S.If your BUZZ goes away. Bad grammar and bad spelling.


So if you still agree on your coin rake diagnosis, where is this thing?  How do i fix it?  Thanks for your help.

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It's on the backside of the coin comparitor

Offline elweedz

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It's on the backside of the coin comparitor


Any idea how i get a new one?   I assume it needs replacing?   How do i identify it?

Offline Jim

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when the rake buzz's that usually indicates the voltage in the cc-16 is lower that 19 vdc, and the large cap needs to be replaced. that usually will fix 99% of them.




I could repair it for you or you could replace the cc-16 with a know good working one. pm me for cost to do this.




Jim



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is the the cap to replace or the tan and black one? 

 

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