Author Topic: S2000 - Ballast connector issue (Read 7727 times)

txtrader682 · « **on:** March 14, 2016, 05:51:11 PM »

Is anyone aware of an alternative to the 3-pin connector that connects the light to the ballast? I have one that has failed. I originally thought it might be a ballast issue. Upon receiving them today, I found out that it's actually a wiring issue that almost turned into a fire issue. Lucky enough, only plug itself was damaged and approx an inch of the positive lead.

I thought about soldering the wires directly to the prongs, but thought I would reach out to the group to see what options there are before proceeding that route.

Thanks!

Shaggy · « **Reply #1 on:** March 14, 2016, 06:32:37 PM »

I guess if it was me, I would look to find a new pig tail for the ballast. By soldering them, you run the same risk again. But you won't be able to unplug it. Kind of like replacing a fuse with a piece of copper tubing. If it goes South you're screwed. Surely some of the vendors have an old machine that they can cut off enough for you to make a splice. Just my opinion but better to be safe than filing an insurance claim.

Dave

777sizzler · « **Reply #2 on:** March 14, 2016, 06:40:55 PM »

Folks here scrap out the non desirable s-2k daily and weekly. Why not just replace the whole harness and check your fans while your at it. The splice job works also as long is it is done correctly.

Shaggy · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2016, 06:47:05 PM »

Quote from: 777sizzler on March 14, 2016, 06:40:55 PM

Folks here scrap out the non desirable s-2k daily and weekly. Why not just replace the whole harness and check your fans while your at it. The splice job works also as long is it is done correctly.

Exactly, don't take a chance with you and your family. Replace the whole harness if you can. It's not worth it.

txtrader682 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2016, 07:12:52 PM »

Both excellent points, and I appreciate the input. The lower light hasn't worked since I purchased the machine. What I originally took as a ballast issue, I now know was most likely incorrect. I have been over 90% of the harness since finding this issue just to make myself feel better. While I know replacing the entire harness is the best way, I really would like to try to splice the plug in first, for the simple reason that I don't think it's a wide-spread problem. The positive lead was so damaged that it literally popped clean off of the plug.

On the other hand, as electronic components begin to age and you factor in humidity and changes in climates, things begin to occur. This machine sat in storage for several years before I obtained it. While it has never exhibited any issues while operating, I still consider myself fortunate to have caught the issue before it potentially turned into a more serious one.

With that said, if were to want to look for a pigtail or a complete harness, do either of you have a suggestion on where to begin? From what I can tell, that connector is part of the main harness, or at least appears to feed up to a distribution panel at the top of the bulkhead. If I'm off base here, please let me know.

777sizzler · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2016, 07:24:47 PM »

You can splice it, Use crimped metal crimps and shrink wrap--you can use a lighter to this if you do not have a hot air gun or other. That is the better way to do things above the duct tape and twisted wires and masking tape. The best way is to solder the wires then shrink wrap. Your choice, both work. --Check your fans. It just looks like the ballast was failing and drawing too much amperage. Check the sockets on the floresent as well. As a Note for future reference this is a common problem with s-2k old casino games-on 24/7-The Ballast would pull to many amps and drop voltage from main pwr. supply and give you all kinds of errors!. In the old days we would un-hook them one at a time to determine which one was the culprit.

txtrader682 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 14, 2016, 07:35:25 PM »

The fans are running well. No issues there! All of the wiring to the light looks in good shape and is not brittle. All I need is to find some crimps or connectors that will fit onto the ballast prongs. I have some heat-shrink from work, but will have to hit up a Radio Shack (if I can find one that's still open) to see if I can find a remedy for the make-shift plug. That is unless I happen across a harness that has been scrapped and salvage some of the tails from it.

777sizzler · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2016, 07:41:33 PM »

I probably have one but I think you may have it fixed by the time I dig it out, ship it etc. If not I am here.

txtrader682 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2016, 07:58:04 PM »

Mom always said to have a Plan "B" lol... What would you take for the harness before I ask for you to exhume it from it's resting place?

777sizzler · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2016, 08:03:07 PM »

It's not really a matter of that. I would have to see if I had the whole one, Or just a pigtail minty connector for the ballast. Either way it would not be much-a small fee plus shipping. The connector is generic and they used them for years on various diff. platforms.

RB · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2016, 08:49:26 PM »

I have one. PayPal me $3 for shipping & I will clip it off with plenty of wire & send it to you.

Ron
msdollars03@aol.com

txtrader682 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 15, 2016, 02:39:57 AM »

Thanks RB.... I've sent you a PM with some info

Jim · « **Reply #12 on:** March 15, 2016, 06:24:39 AM »

that's a pretty common failure on S-2000 machines, I have seen most failures in the belly door area. Its the same condition that exists with the S+ power plug, same type connector, losses its tensile strength due to current flow and becomes an intermittent connection. I just replace the whole connector, I use scotchlok connectors to attach the new pigtail, no soldering involved, its an insulated connector with a silicon gel inside the connector that when depressed it will force the gel out of the connection and form a moisture barrier to waterproof the connection. there is a special tool that should be used to compress the connector, but in a pinch you can use a pair of pliers to due the same thing.

Jim

cowboygames · « **Reply #13 on:** March 15, 2016, 06:29:16 AM »

Or you could hardwire LED replacement bulbs in also. No more ballasts and they should last as long as you own the machines

txtrader682 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2016, 07:30:14 AM »

Agreed. Just not looking to dump a C-note on an LED kit at the moment.

cowboygames · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2016, 07:56:16 AM »

Roger that, keep your eyes open though, here and ebay, they pop up occasionally for $30-50 for a 3 piece set

txtrader682 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2016, 08:07:24 AM »

txtrader682 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 15, 2016, 05:17:36 PM »

RB,

I think I got it worked out. Let me know! Thanks again for everyone's input. I'm not sure what I would have done if I hadn't found NLG lol...
Of course, now I just want to find another machine to work on after I get this one wrapped up...

Wait, I think someone in this thread warned me of that happening when I first signed up...

RB · « **Reply #18 on:** March 15, 2016, 05:29:44 PM »

Got it. You should rec tracking info.

qbert · « **Reply #19 on:** March 15, 2016, 06:32:05 PM »

http://m.ebay.com/itm/IGT-Slot-Machine-LED-Light-Bars-set-of-3-/262253115764?nav=SEARCH

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Author Topic: S2000 - Ballast connector issue (Read 7727 times)