Author Topic: Bally e 1000 Tests good but (Read 21664 times)

kingjim · « **Reply #20 on:** June 21, 2016, 06:43:14 PM »

Both hoppers are from a 1000 series. The one just had a jam so I swapped it with the other. Now works just like the other before it jammed. I still have the original problem with it not accepting coins. The coin reject stays out and rejects everything but on test #2 it activates and works fine. Thanks for the input. I can use all the feedback and help I can get.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #21 on:** June 21, 2016, 07:14:15 PM »

Can you post several pictures of the display, the inside with the reel assembly removed and a picture of the bottom with the hopper removed?

kingjim · « **Reply #22 on:** June 21, 2016, 08:16:31 PM »

I have no idea what is wrong. I post 4 pictures each on 2 posts because 6 is the limit and I have 8 but when I hit post I get a blank page and when I come back in here I don't see them. Not even my not with the post.

Amechanic · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2016, 08:47:28 PM »

Sound like you need to turn down your cameras mega pixels. Your pictures are too big to post.

kingjim · « **Reply #24 on:** June 21, 2016, 09:51:10 PM »

Give it another try.

kingjim · « **Reply #25 on:** June 21, 2016, 09:52:28 PM »

Last 4. Thanks.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2016, 07:00:39 AM »

Is your ribbon cable between MPU and I/O board polarized properly? What is the history on this machine? Did you buy it as a non-working machine?

kingjim · « **Reply #27 on:** June 22, 2016, 07:45:25 AM »

The ribbon between the MPU and I/O plugged in properly and I have changed both out with others and get the same results. I have the red line facing down, I believe that is correct.
I was given the machine a few weeks back because it was completely dead and I had fixed others in the past. Mostly just common sense and sticking to it. I have always been able to fix about anything but this is really kicking me. I went through the entire machine and fixed or replaced several molex and other wires. Changed out a few things and got it to where it is.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #28 on:** June 22, 2016, 08:06:56 AM »

Couple more pics please. Close up of your MPU and I/O with better lighting. The others are too far away, fuzzy and dark to maybe help diagnose. Thanks!

Amechanic · « **Reply #29 on:** June 22, 2016, 08:30:05 AM »

Make sure that the Ram Board is not touching the MPU. They had a thin card like materal use as an insulator between them. Have you checked the header pin connectors on this ram board. They're to rot and turn green from the acid and vapors from the battery.

kingjim · « **Reply #30 on:** June 22, 2016, 08:35:45 AM »

Unplugged all items including Ram from all boards cleaned and straightened pins and replaced. The thin separator between Mother and Daughter boards is still in place. Thanks.

kingjim · « **Reply #31 on:** June 22, 2016, 08:37:38 AM »

Here is 2 of each. If still not good let me know. Thanks.

Amechanic · « **Reply #32 on:** June 22, 2016, 10:31:35 AM »

Have you tried unplugging the ribbon cable between the MPU & the IO then turning the machine on to see what your win meter reads? Is it possible that you have some corrupt game chips, or our socketed Chips. I ended up making my self a tool to check each header pins crimp connector one wire at a time. Takes the guess work out of the condition of plugs connectors. One machine I had recently worked one day but not the next. I would get weird codes in the meter. Come to find out half of the edge crimp connectors on my MPU plug were shot. Once they were replaced the machine ran great. Here's a pic of my home made tool. I used a header pin from a bad board, then glued it into the tip of a pen.

kingjim · « **Reply #33 on:** June 22, 2016, 11:17:26 AM »

I don't know if this is weird or not, I expected a change. With the wire disconnected between the MPU and I/O I get the same thing. 5.b.0.0.0.0.
b being blank. Occasionally when I first turn it on I will get a 5.b.b.b.b.b. or a b.b.b.b.b.2 or b.b.b.b.b.6. That is about all I ever get now.
You don't happen to know anyone that checks and/or rebuilds these boards do you? Thanks.

sudsy7 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 22, 2016, 04:14:21 PM »

Your symptoms are similar to what mine were. My old power supply voltages checked out good, too. Things are different under load. Do yourself a favor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-Power-Supply-E1000-E2000-NEW/172249715911?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36866%26meid%3D5eef9fc04e584d68952924f3707b7fd5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D172249715911

It really doesn't make any sense to troubleshoot anything until you replace the 30+ year old power supply first.

kingjim · « **Reply #35 on:** June 23, 2016, 08:07:27 AM »

Thanks for the thought and the link I will look into it. I just have a couple more things I have to try first.
First, I have been told that on the 1000 series that if the battery is low or has been dead I don't need a clear chip. Low battery or dead battery how important is that to the 1000 series. If I was misled that may be my problem in the first place. It was not here I was told that but I came here with that information in my head. Thank you.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #36 on:** June 23, 2016, 09:30:10 AM »

As mentioned earlier, I agree with the new PS recommendation . Also remove the RAM board with the battery and look VERY closely through all the Molex connector holes which the pins on the MPU slide through. They all should look the same visually. As mentioned earlier those connection rot away and break off. Using the tool that Amechanic mentioned will help determine if those connections have a good friction fit for a good connection. To clean those internal connections, you can use a acetylene torch tip cleaning round file . That removes the oxidation.

dhellis · « **Reply #37 on:** June 23, 2016, 09:54:38 AM »

Quote from: kingjim on June 23, 2016, 08:07:27 AM

Thanks for the thought and the link I will look into it. I just have a couple more things I have to try first.
First, I have been told that on the 1000 series that if the battery is low or has been dead I don't need a clear chip. Low battery or dead battery how important is that to the 1000 series. If I was misled that may be my problem in the first place. It was not here I was told that but I came here with that information in my head. Thank you.

The battery is not required unless your machine is a progressive machine. The battery supplies a hold voltage on the RAM chips
for accounting data, this is needed for casinos but not necessary for the home user. There is a clear chip that can be used to
clear up garbled data and the only time one might notice the garbled data is after running test 2 just before the sequence starts
over it will show then number of times the test had been run, if it comes up with numbers that make no sense at all then the ram
is likely to be corrupt, but even then that corrupt data will not keep the machine from running properly

Amechanic · « **Reply #38 on:** June 23, 2016, 09:57:52 AM »

The battery is not require. They were used for book keeping only to store things like money in and out...

kingjim · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2016, 10:38:35 AM »

I thank you both for the battery information. I was hoping it was right. I did take off the battery board last night and cleaned all the holes. I got up this morning plugged it in and everything looks just like it always have but it will not test anymore. It just stays at 500000. No testing at all. Thought maybe I left something in one of the little holes so cleaned them again, this time I used Dr. Fresh Floss Picks. They work great. Fit perfect but still no tests.

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Author Topic: Bally e 1000 Tests good but (Read 21664 times)