IGT Haywire, can it be fixed?

[Jim]

looking at the pictures here is what you might be facing:

cpu board and a motherboard   approx.   110.00
2 chips  approx  30.00
200 head  and cash can    approx.  75.00 ( I would upgrade to a WBA  cost is 100.00  plus shipping.)   I have these parts
coin head, cc-16,  encoder  approx.  80.00    I have these parts
is there a hopper in the machine? since it has a hopper, it will have to be changed over to a 25 cent, shelf wheel ,star agitator. 
belly glass      approx.  75.00   (I do have the belly glass)
probably with lights, bulbs etc. . your going to spend approx.  400.00  to get this machine up and running.
the goop running down beneath the handle is from a shock absorber  in the handle mech, worst case, when the handle is used it will bounce half way up and lock in that position.

the decision is up to you, but this is a pretty close estimate of what you need and the approx. costs

Jim

[rokgpsman]

Your biggest hurdle is going to be finding the belly glass. This machines a toss up. If it had the glass for sure I would fix it, but with it missing parts and it’s others issues maybe not. I hope you got this at a cheap price.

Agreed, the Haywire glass is sometimes hard to find. You could get any lower-cost S+ belly glass piece that you like and install it for now, then change it out later if/when you find the correct Haywire belly glass. Many people wouldn't even notice that the belly glass was incorrect, the important glass is the upper one that has the payouts shown.

To everyone: I merged the OP's other recent posts about this machine that were in a different forum area with this thread so we can get them all together, makes for better understanding. They are dated a little earlier so appear at the top of this discussion (on page 1). In one of those earlier posts the purchase price of the machine was said to be $100.

The Haywire machine is one of the more popular S+ games, so it is probably worth getting repaired, especially if you plan to keep it. If your plans are to resell it then you'll want to find out approx what you can sell it for, then decide if the cost of repair is worth it. If you can do all the repairs yourself that will help lower costs.

You can post a WantToBuy (WTB) request here on NLG for free, someone might have the belly glass you need. If you want to do this just post a separate message in this discussion with the WTB request and we will get it moved to the Classified Ads area.

If there are other areas of the machine that look damaged or something you aren't sure about then post photos and we can advise about that. You can attach up to 5 photos per message, and post as many messages as you want. Each photo is limited to 1 megabyte in file size, that's 1,000 kb. I suggest you take a few photos showing the inside of the door, the lower cabinet area, the reels and reel shelf, hopper, power supply in bottom of machine, etc so we can better see its condition. Try to take the photos looking square-on, not from above, that way we can better see the details.

Is the outside of the cabinet ok, no holes or torn cabinet covering on sides or back? Does it have the coin tray at the bottom front of machine or is that missing?

[jidrd55]

The tray coin is missing, I do want to keep it, husband wants to put in on the curb 😂, I did pay $100 for it, if I put another $400 in it that would be $500, I will do the work myself so no more $ added to it. It does have a hopper, I will post more pictures. I'm gonna take out the mother board now and see what it looks like after the acid damage is cleaned out and then post the pictures of the wiring and inside. One poster has the belly glass, not sure I won't just put a piece of plexi in it for now. The cabinet is in good shape other than the locks missing, there is one hole maybe a speaker was there but not sure; will need a reset key. My husband is worried that after spending all the money to fix it it still won't work, oh yee of little faith; and I won't have anything to play, I do have a RFranco The Tower of Babel machine to play, with its own issues but I guess that's a future thread. First things first, gonna get it cleaned then go from there. Thanks to everyone willing to offer advice as I'm sure it's no secret I am a novice at this. 😜

[rokgpsman]

The coin tray is easy to install, someone here will most likely have one, not sure of cost. I think the speaker is attached to the lower corner on the inside of the door, near the door hinge, but I may be thinking about a different model machine. The motherboard looks in bad shape but we'll see how it cleans up. The copper board traces may be damaged and eaten away by the battery leakage, it is pretty corrosive.

As you probably noticed, the mpu board is mounted to a flat metal plate called a tray. In one corner of the tray is a transformer that has a wiring cable that connects to the mpu board. That's how the mpu gets it's power. Usually when you buy another mpu board you don't get the tray or transformer, so you will need to reuse your old tray and xfmr.

The person you got the machine from probably gave up on it and took parts from it to sell or repair other machines. Having the hopper is good, that could be a costly item to replace.

On the side of the machine with the pull handle there is a round hole for the door lock, it is about 5/8 inch hole I think. It is located in the lower forward area on that side of the machine, near a chrome metal post that sticks out. That metal post is the lockbar latch post. You don't have to have a door lock, you can latch and unlatch the door by moving that chrome post up and down. It is attached to a sliding lockbar. The lockbar has a door optic sensor mounted to it (small round gold colored electrical part), the mating optic sensor is attached to the cabinet frame. Those two door optic sensors must align when the door is shut and latched for the machine to operate, part of a security thing the casino requires. One of the optic parts emits a beam of light (you can't see it, infrared) and the other optic part receives that light. This way the machine knows the door is shut and latched. The door lock keeps that chrome latch post (and lockbar) from moving to the unlatched position, so if you need to keep kids or gramps out of your hopper stash of coins then you will want to install a door lock.

Then up higher on the same pull handle side of the machine is a keyswitch, that is the reset switch. On the inside there are 2 wires that connect to the reset switch's terminals. It's just a simple switch but it takes a key to operate it, that way the casino players can't mess with it. If you didn't get the reset key they are avail for low cost, the industry uses a standard key called a "2341" key due to the number stamped on it. Here is an example:

http://www.spininc.com/01465-0

.....I do want to keep it, husband wants to put in on the curb 😂..... My husband is worried that after spending all the money to fix it it still won't work, oh yee of little faith......Thanks to everyone willing to offer advice as I'm sure it's no secret I am a novice at this. 😜

If it was a Porsche or a boat he'd probably be all for working on your project.   

Don't worry about being a novice, everyone started out the same way.
A confident attitude and willingness to learn is all it takes. 

[sixcardmark]

The only speaker on a s+ is on the bottom of the door just above the coin tray all the way to the left.

[jidrd55]

I got it cleaned up, I'm posting these new pictures, I hope; I couldn't get the very tiny screws out of the mother board so I basically had to rip it out leaving the screws still in the metal, I don't know how I will be able to install a new mother board without getting them out and get new screws to hold it in place, any thoughts?

[jidrd55]

Some more pics

[jidrd55]

And the last ones, if anyone knows how to rotate pictures, please do?

[rokgpsman]

I turned your sideways photos right-side up, that happens sometimes when people post photos. Not your fault, just something about the upload process. On your reply#28 I accidentally lost one of your photos, can you post it again and I will get it taken care of. It has the file name that ends with "1725". Sorry about that.   

And on your last post it looks like you posted the same photo twice? (photo "1751"). Maybe you clicked on it a second time instead of a different photo.

On the screws that you can't remove they may be rusted into the threaded mounts. (I think the correct term for the threaded mount hole is a "boss"). You can try something like PB Blaster or other penetrating oil. Just squirt some of it on the frozen screws and let it sit for a while, maybe overnight. Then they should loosen up. You're right, you don't want to use so much force that you twist off the screw and break it.

That large spot of rust where the motherboard is mounted can be cleaned up. Amechanic has posted about how he removes the rust, I'll see if I can find it. Or maybe he will repeat what he does here. I think he uses something like a 3M scratch pad or maybe sandpaper, then spray paints the area with Krylon silver or chrome paint.

[rokgpsman]

I think this is the discussion about removing rust, then improving the chassis appearance and protecting it that I am thinking about:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=20612.msg110171#msg110171

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=20612.msg110237#msg110237


If you have an electric sander, like a circular (orbital) sander or even a simple vibration sander you can use it to make the work easier. Or you can buy an inexpensive sanding block, many have clips or other way to hold the sandpaper in place.

[Amechanic]

I agree about getting some sort of penetrating spray for this screws. You might want to tap them lightly with a small hammer, then maybe try a small pair of vice grips on the screw heads. Don’t force them but move the screw left then right. Rock it back and forth. If it needs it spray them again. As for that rust you should try to kill it, then get a silver or aluminum color spray paint to touch it up.  Nice work so far👍

[jidrd55]

Thank you for fixing the pics. When I get the screws out I'm not sure how I will be able to screw the new motherboard down, do screws come with them or is there someplace I can buy them, this is the only issue right now keeping me from ordering everything I need, I know the board will have to be held down securily or when I put the cpu in & out it will come out with it. Also, does anyone know of the wiring schematics when attaching the wires back, looks scary; I'd hate to burn up the new board.

[rokgpsman]

The motherboard mounting screws don't come with the board when you buy it. You might find a seller that will include the screws when you buy the board if you ask him about it to begin with. A lot of times a parts seller has machines sitting around that he takes various parts out of, so he might be able to get the motherboard screws and throw them in with the board purchase.

Be careful when removing the old motherboard screws, if you break one it will be difficult to remove the broken portion. After letting the penetrating oil work for a while try turning the screw slowly and carefully, gently. If it is still stuck then spray more penetrating oil on it and let it soak for a while. Or do the suggestions Amechanic mentioned earlier about tapping it lightly with a hammer, or turn it back and forth. This is all trying to loosen that old rust on the threads.

I think many of the motherboard connectors are different sizes to help get them connected to the right place. When you get the replacement motherboard you can post photos of the cables you aren't sure of and someone here can tell you where to plug it in. Every connector on the motherboard has a name, the name will be something like "J10" and that name is written on the circuit board near the connector.

Thanks for reposting the photo I zapped, I was trying to edit the sideways photos too fast since this is a live discussion.

Here is a diagram drawing of the motherboard showing its various connectors. IGT made different versions of the motherboard over the years, so the one you get may be different than this one. But we can get you the correct connector diagram once you get the motherboard and tell us its part number.

Some of the connectors are not "keyed", so they can be installed backwards - that would be bad. So when you get ready to install the new motherboard and connect the wiring cables to it double-check with folks here about how each connector gets inserted.

[Amechanic]

I’m sure who ever you do buy the mother board from, if you explain what happened and that you need some mounting screws, that they should be able to help you out with replacements. If not then take your old ones to your local hardware store to see if they can help. They usually have these special screws in drawers in the hardware isle.

[Tilt]

My husband is worried that after spending all the money to fix it it still won't work, oh yee of little faith;

I admire your confidence.  You have to right attitude to do it.    PM me an address and I'll send you the game and reel (SP & SS) chips you'll need for your new MPU board "Pro bono".

[rokgpsman]

 

[jidrd55]

Thank you Tilt and everyone for your help, I am in contact with someone from this thread with the motherboard, cpu with battery and transformer and two chips all for about $130 with shipping, I asked him about the screws, just waiting for his reply. When I get home today I will remove the old screws, been soaking  overnight; if Mr. Lawrence doesn't have the screws I'll run to the hardware store as I'm sure the old ones will not be reusable. Thank you again Tilt, your offer is very generous and renews my faith in humanity. 😊

[Amechanic]

Most of the screws used in these are Metric, but there are a few standard SAE threads. I’ll gladly mail you the screws you need if the seller of the replacement boards won’t send replacements. I like how your not afraid to jump into this game and get it working again👍.. As for your other parts I think Jim at Midwest slots should have the hoppers wheel and shelf wheel. You will need the black plastic coin guide inside the coin in optics and a 25c coin head. You could even convert this to a nickel machine while your at it. This coin comparitor will be the same for quarter or nickel.

Gary

[Tilt]

OK.  It looks like you got it pretty well covered then.  Good luck!

[jidrd55]

Thank you Amechanic, I haven't heard back from him yet, I really appreciate the offer and will definitely let you know one way or the other.  I am going to order everything I need after work today so if I don't hear back from him, I'll start shopping around again, the sooner I get ordered the sooner it will be fixed, crossed fingers. Thanks for your help, if I get this working I'll be looking for more project machines. Oh yeah, my motto is,

'if I can't fix it, it ain't broke!' 😂

Jess



(edit to fix font problem)