Bally Super Continental odds motor gets hot

[Kaimaani888]

I recently imported a Super Continental from the US. It's the model that doesn't have a hopper and you only win credits.


I was able to get it working but I found out that the odds motor gets really hot after playing for only few minutes. I measured the coil and it was 4,8 ohms. Tried running it with an adjustable transformer and at 40 VAC it draws around 1 amp and stays reasonably cool after running it continuously for few minutes. When I set the transformer at 50 VAC (around the same as it would be in the cabinet) it draws around 1,5 amps and gets really hot really fast.


Pulling it apart and cleaning it didn't seem to have any effect. I don't think the gearbox is jammed because it runs smoothly and the only thing that gets hot is the coil. Any tips on what I should do? I have no clue if 4,8 ohms is good or bad nor if the motor is even the right one

[wolftalk]

the odds motor on my 929 is 3.6 ohms and 30RPM.


two things:


1] the odds motor should not be running continuously.   It should only run during credit mode payout and jackpot/hand pay reset using the key


2] if your power is 50Hz, your V/Hz ratio will be off assuming the motor is a 60Hz motor.  The motor was designed for 50/60 = 0.833.  If you are on 50Hz, then around 42V will maintain the same ratio and not over-saturate the magnetic field and make more heat.  Your RPM will also be lower at 50Hz, but nothing you can do about that and it won't bother anything.  Payout is just a little slower. 


what is the full model number on the plate below the handle (891-something or just 891)?

[Kaimaani888]

Thanks for replying!


My model plate says 891 sc-66. I was running the motor continuously on my work bench to see how hot it gets after running it and if changing the voltage has any effect.


Our mains voltage is 230v @50 here in Finland so I guess it gets hot because of the frequenzy difference. Is there something I can do or do I have to source a 50hz motor?

[wolftalk]

there's usually two lines of numbers on the plate.  The top is the model number, and the bottom is the serial number - which may also have the model number in it.

you don't need to do anything about the motor.   In normal use, it only runs during a payout, so while it may get hotter than when running at 60Hz, it's not going to hurt it for the length of time it's running.

according to the bally 1100 manual (look in http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_manuals/), there's only one part number for the motor - E-119-376B

in the same manual, other games like the 883 and 902 had different part numbers for 50Hz and 60Hz motors.

one thing to check is see if the motor winding has three terminals.  If it does, one is common and the other two are for 60Hz and 50Hz.  Connect to the 50Hz one.



do you have a schematic for the game?  I think all the 891 schems I have are for games with hoppers or hoppers+credits.

[Kaimaani888]

Thanks for the tip!


I used one schematic for the model with a hopper because I couldn't find anything else. The coil didn't have 3 terminals, only 2. When I got the game working, I was playing it normally using credits and cheating to check if it pays credits properly after winning. It got so hot that the air around it was waving and I could smell it. That made me question whether it's shorted or something. Kinda made me feel like it's a fire hazard.


The motor rotates those cams one full rotation when I press the credit button one the right, so the motor has to work alot when playing off credits. One friend suggested to put an inductor to limit the current or maybe I could use a fan and/or put somekind of a heat sink thingy.


Thanks alot for taking time answering my questions. It's my first slot machine and we have never imported EM stuff from the states so these kinds of problems are new to me. Although I have worked on EM stuff before.


       

[wolftalk]

after running it on the bench continuously, did you burn off anything that may have been sprayed on there previously and it's no longer smoking?


obviously, if the varnish insulation is burning, that's a problem, but usually the coil wire can survive even getting red hot for a short time.


since your mains voltage is in between the two configurations for the transformer, did you go with the 240V config?    That should help a little.