per david's post, clean the wiper board rivets with alcohol and green scrub pad or similar non-abrasive. Anything that doesn't scratch the surface is fine.
if still have problems, the easiest thing is yank the reel mech and using the schematic and an ohmeter, verify almost zero ohms thru the reels by probing the appropriate pins on the beau plugs. However, you don't have an 809-N anymore, so the trick will be to figure out what version of the 1090 the game has been converted to. I'd guess from the reel strip symbols in your pics it's the base model 1090.
you can find the docs for that game at
http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/1090. The 1090 used molex plugs and your game probably has the older jones plugs, but for payout you only care about the reel mech beau plugs and hopper beau plug.
to check the reels with an ohmeter, you'd put one probe on the plug pin for wire 90 and the other probe on the appropriate pin for the win on the wire that goes to the payout counter ... e.g. wire 23 for bars, wire 41 for plums, etc. If you don't see almost zero ohms, push down on/wiggle the reel wipers fingers onto the contact plates to look for poor connections.
there's no guarantee the conversion is wired exactly like the 1090 would be. Wire colors and the locations on the plugs could be different. The way to tell for sure is:
- look at the wire color attached to the payout counter trace for the pay you want
- see where that wire goes on the hopper beau plug
- yank the hopper and reel mech. Use an ohmeter/continuity tester/buzzer with one probe in the female hopper socket at pin position you just determined. Probe the female reel mech socket to find the other end of that wire from the hopper socket.
- you can look at the wire color attached to the reel mech pin at the found position or just stick your probe on that pin and the other probe on wire 90 ... after you make sure you know where wire 90 or it's equivalent ...