S+ Double Diamond Stuck in code 61 --> 61-1 loop

[kmarrocco]

I picked up a couple more machines.  One of them is an S+ Double Diamond machine that had a dead battery.  I replaced the battery and then tried the machine and get the 61 code.  After pressing the white test button until 61-1 appears, I close the door and turn the jackpot reset key once.  Nothing happens.  I have searched other threads and it recommended checking the door optics (checked with known good set), the cash can is closed (seems closed but haven't checked switch operation....could use some help here), or a clear chip......


Any ideas on how to verify the cash can door is reading as closed?  Or any other things I could possibly look at to try out.  Can post a video later if needed. 

[jay]

A clear chip is the way to go...… common issue after a battery change.


The issue is that the CMOS on the MPU board is corrupted and doesn't match the CMOS on the Motherboard.
The Clear Chip basically sets these back to base.



If you are running something like a 1271 game chip, changing out to a 731 game chip (or vice versa) the machine will often cut a 63 or 65 error, and then you turn the JP reset key and it reformats the CMOS.
What is happening here is that the newer 1271 collects all sorts of gaming statistics that the older 731 doesn't and the way the memory registers are layed out in CMOS are different. When you do the significant game change the CMOS needs to be reformatted to match. It kind of does the same thing that a clear would be doing (assuming you don't have the chip). I have seen this fix the 61, 61-1 loop.


Most of the vendors on our home page can sell you a clear and set chip. You will need the SET chip to reactivate the bill validator after the clear.

[kmarrocco]

So I have tried a clear chip and it still will not clear the 61-1 when I turn the reset key.

[jay]

I will refer you to Ricks Faqs (home page, bottom right) -


With regards to the clear chip - did it go through its count down. I usually do this twice for good measure.


With the 61-1 - you need to close the door before turning the Jackpot reset key. Doing this with the door open doesn't work.


 In Fact - A Common problem that occurs after a game change is that you will see a 61- 1 code  after you hold the test button in and hear the "Ding" but you close the door and turn the reset key and nothing happens. This is usually caused by an open door to the cash storage container or a misaligned Bill validator. - Check all your doors to be certain they are completely closed before closing the main machine door.

[knagl]

The "61 loop" is when the machine has a 61 error, you press the self test button to get to 61-1, and then when you close the door and turn the jackpot reset key the machine goes back to 61. That's the loop -- you just go from 61 to 61-1, back to 61, etc.

From what you described, you are not in a loop as the machine never changes back to 61 (except if you turn the power off). To emphasize what Jay said in his last reply, after 61-1 you must close and fully latch the main door, then turn the jackpot reset key to clear the 61-1.

For home use you can safely take the green wires that go to the microswitch for the cash can door and short them together, permanently (take them off the switch, strip the ends, twist them together, then cover in electrical tape). That will eliminate that switch from ever being a concern.

I would still say your door optics could be suspect. When you swapped them out with known good ones, were you careful to connect them correctly? IGT stupidly made the connection for the emitter and receiver the same size plug, so it's possible to inadvertently connect the wrong component to the wrong wires.

The emitter has red and black wiring, and should be installed on the portion of the door that swings open.  The receiver has a slightly more domed appearance to the part, and has red and white wires, and gets installed on the inside of the cabinet and does not move when the door is opened.

[kmarrocco]

Thanks for the help guys, and sorry I called it the loop when it is not exactly the same.  So I just got home and retried the clear chip.  Here is what I did:


-power off
-pull MPU and remove game chip/install clear chip
-install mpu
-power on
-press test button twice
-let machine count up twice ending in 999
-power off
-power on
Press test button twice
-let machine count up twice ending in 999
-power off
-Pull mpu board out
-Replace clear chip with game chip
-Replace MPU board in machine
-power on
-hold test button til 61 turns to 61-1
-Close all doors
-Turn jackpot reset key
-nothing happens
-open door and short bill bin door sensor wires
-close door
-turn jackpot reset key
-nothing happens


I can post videos if helpful.

[jay]

I don’t think videos are required.
I suspect it’s a door closure issue.
Follow the troubleshooting offered by Knagl

[kmarrocco]

So I rechecked the main door optics.  I powered off and put a known good set back on, taking care to put the red/black wired one on the door abd the red/white wired one on the cabinet.   I did the tape thing to make sure they were aligned and still nothing.  Wondering if there may be a problem on the other end of the wires.....

[kmarrocco]

Then I took the mpu out and put it in a good cabinet.   I got a 65-2 error but was able to clear it and play.  Then I put the mpu from the good cabinet into the problem cabinet.   I was able to get into diagnostic mode and run an optics test.  It foes not toggle 1-0-1-0-1-0......as I mentioned I have tried 2 sets of optics. I am wondering if there is a problem with the wiring. [size=78%]Does anyone know where the other end plugs in?[/size]

[Badbaud]

I just ran into that on a S+. I plugged in my S+ optic transmitter tester. Basically a LED in series with a 390 Ohm 1/2W resistor and the LED did not light.
That pointed to the 2N3904 transistor on the MPU board being open, it is the driver for the door transmitter optic.
I replaced the 2N3904 and was able to clear the 61-1 and get the game up after installing the door optic.
So it wasn't the optics that were bad, it was the transistor that drove the door optic transmitter.

[kmarrocco]

But I was able to play with the suspect mpu board in a known good cabinet, so that's why I think that transistor on the mpu is ok and it my be wiring or connectors at the mpu board.   Does anyone have a pinout for the mpu board so I can check for continuity?

[Jim]

Maybe I misread what you did in your list of clearing the machine,  you said you opened the bill switch?  the cash can door switch should be hooked together and left that way, (permanently bypass the cash can switch)  this would prevent the door optic circuit from working,  the ground loop would be open.

Jim

[kmarrocco]

I had said that I opened the bill door and shorted the wires on the bill door switch together.  This didn't fix the issue.


I read on another thread to measure for 5v at the emitter connector and 8-10v on the receiver side.  I tried this and have 5v on the emitter side but nothing on the receiver side. 


In the end I shorted the receiver side green wire to the cabinet case and the error is gone. 


Now I have error 21.

[jay]

Thats a coin in error.... press the white button several times, close the door and it should clear.


Do you have a sample coin in your comparitor, coin is going through the optics ok ?

[kmarrocco]

I was able to clear the error.  Now I am able to play if I put a dollar in the machine.  But when I put a coin in the machine it goes into the hopper without giving me a credit.  Does that mean bad coin optics?

[sixcardmark]

Yes probably so.  Try cleaning the optics, do not use alcohol.

[kmarrocco]

I have it accepting about 3 out of 4 coins now.  The thing is, for the coins it does not accept, it still directs them to the hopper.

[jay]

There is a coin diverter that is controlled by a solinoid.
When the machine is ready to accept a coin the solinoid is activated and the coin goes to the hopper.
These burn out frequently so many times they are simply wire tied into the accept position.


Your reliability problem may be your comparitor. There is a sensitivity adjustment on it.
You might also want to swap out the sample coin for a new one. I have seen where a coin has been in there for a long time it stops working - no idea why

[knagl]

Do you have the correct coin encoder in the coin-in assembly for the size coins you are using?

The encoder is a plastic insert in the coin-in assembly that directs incoming coins so they pass correctly in front of the coin-in optics. For example, if you had a dollar encoder in there but are using quarters, it is possible that some coins could be correctly accepted by the comparitor, but then no credit given since they don't pass through the coin-in optics correctly.

[kmarrocco]

Good point,  I'll have to look into that.