Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[David Walz]

Hello, I have been looking for another Bally slot machine for a long, long, time. So, I am back for another challenge. I restored a Bally before on this forum sourcing all of the missing parts.
809-ZZN model
Here it is:

[David Walz]

More:

[David Walz]

I just got it in and haven't explored the slot machine, so now for the strip down, clean, service, repairs, and so on.

[David Walz]

So, I am missing the hopper. Any ideas on where I can source one?

I found a picture of of one here on the forum. I can rebuild one if needed.

[wolftalk]

the hopper itself isn't that big a deal ... any 30 pin hopper or rewiring a 30 pin plug onto a hopper would get you partway.

the problem is the payout schedule ... specifically a single cherry paying 3.   

the drawing for the payout disc that belongs to the game is w-923-219 ... which I don't have so I don't know what the M-645-xxx number on the disc itself would be.

you need a disc that can support payouts of 3, 5, 10, 14, 18, 50, 100 and 200.   It may be possible to use a more common disc that has 2, 5, and the rest and mount the disc so it takes three steps to get off the 2 trace, then you'd have to cut other traces to shorten them a little.  Alternatively, add a copper strip to lengthen the 2 trace.

you may be able to find a disc with more pay traces that you can cut short to get the lengths you need, but I don't know who has piles of discs available to hunt thru.

a last resort option is replace the glass and reel tapes to make a more common 809 variant, but it'd be a shame to lose the 3 stars in any position payout - I don't think that was common.

did you get paperwork with the game? 

[David Walz]

the hopper itself isn't that big a deal ... any 30 pin hopper or rewiring a 30 pin plug onto a hopper would get you partway.

the problem is the payout schedule ... specifically a single cherry paying 3.   

the drawing for the payout disc that belongs to the game is w-923-219 ... which I don't have so I don't know what the M-645-xxx number on the disc itself would be.

you need a disc that can support payouts of 3, 5, 10, 14, 18, 50, 100 and 200.   It may be possible to use a more common disc that has 2, 5, and the rest and mount the disc so it takes three steps to get off the 2 trace, then you'd have to cut other traces to shorten them a little.  Alternatively, add a copper strip to lengthen the 2 trace.

you may be able to find a disc with more pay traces that you can cut short to get the lengths you need, but I don't know who has piles of discs available to hunt thru.

a last resort option is replace the glass and reel tapes to make a more common 809 variant, but it'd be a shame to lose the 3 stars in any position payout - I don't think that was common.

did you get paperwork with the game?

Wow, you have given me a lot of information. I really want to get the correct hopper since the Minty character of slot machine. No paperwork with slot machine, I'm interested in the background of Minty..

[David Walz]

What wiring diagram does the 809-ZZN use.

Thanks for everything.

[David Walz]

the hopper itself isn't that big a deal ... any 30 pin hopper or rewiring a 30 pin plug onto a hopper would get you partway.

the problem is the payout schedule ... specifically a single cherry paying 3.   

the drawing for the payout disc that belongs to the game is w-923-219 ... which I don't have so I don't know what the M-645-xxx number on the disc itself would be.

you need a disc that can support payouts of 3, 5, 10, 14, 18, 50, 100 and 200.   It may be possible to use a more common disc that has 2, 5, and the rest and mount the disc so it takes three steps to get off the 2 trace, then you'd have to cut other traces to shorten them a little.  Alternatively, add a copper strip to lengthen the 2 trace.

you may be able to find a disc with more pay traces that you can cut short to get the lengths you need, but I don't know who has piles of discs available to hunt thru.

a last resort option is replace the glass and reel tapes to make a more common 809 variant, but it'd be a shame to lose the 3 stars in any position payout - I don't think that was common.

did you get paperwork with the game?

This is the diagram, the upper cabinet has equipment. I think the payout is in the upper cabinet. Please let me know.

[David Walz]

More diagram, cabinet assembly.

[David Walz]

More diagram, cabinet assembly.

[wolftalk]

as ya might have guessed, "Minty" is a character used by the Mint hotel and casino in downtown las vegas ... which closed in 1988.  It replaced the 7 symbol typically used for the jackpot.

paperwork for the slot will be extremely unlikely to find, but the paper for any 809 is going to be close - except the reel wiper wiring and payout disc, but those are straightforward enough to figure out if necessary.   I'd use the 809-ZZE stuff on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ as a first guess.

you'll need to diagram the 30 pin hopper connector in your cabinet and probably make some wiring changes to whatever hopper you find.  Fortunately, bally wasn't in the habit of changing all the wire colors at random, so you'll find that matching the colors between cabinet and hopper very likely to be right.

the upper cabinet has the various units needed for doing the 5 coin stuff:

- odds unit - keeps track of number of coins played.  Controls the lighting and directs payout to appropriate win multiplier unit
- X2-X5 units - look like little pinball score reels.  The units modify when the payout counter steps.  e.g. if you play 2 coins, the X2 unit is used and it steps the payout counter once for every two coins ejected.
- count unit - used for jackpot accounting on meters.  Rarely used in the casinos and doesn't matter if it doesn't work ... the game probably doesn't have the meters installed anyway.
- various relays - mostly jackpot lockup and control relays for stepping some units

the hopper has:

- the payout relay
- payout counter unit
- delay relay on it.   

when scrounging for a hopper, you need one that supports electrically-stepped payout.  Many hoppers are mechanically stepped - even some used on multiplier machines - so make sure the hopper has switches being operated by the coin out pivot arm instead of a linkage to the payout counter (bally 400 manual , page 48, part #12)

[David Walz]

as ya might have guessed, "Minty" is a character used by the Mint hotel and casino in downtown las vegas ... which closed in 1988.  It replaced the 7 symbol typically used for the jackpot.

paperwork for the slot will be extremely unlikely to find, but the paper for any 809 is going to be close - except the reel wiper wiring and payout disc, but those are straightforward enough to figure out if necessary.   I'd use the 809-ZZE stuff on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ as a first guess.

you'll need to diagram the 30 pin hopper connector in your cabinet and probably make some wiring changes to whatever hopper you find.  Fortunately, bally wasn't in the habit of changing all the wire colors at random, so you'll find that matching the colors between cabinet and hopper very likely to be right.

the upper cabinet has the various units needed for doing the 5 coin stuff:

- odds unit - keeps track of number of coins played.  Controls the lighting and directs payout to appropriate win multiplier unit
- X2-X5 units - look like little pinball score reels.  The units modify when the payout counter steps.  e.g. if you play 2 coins, the X2 unit is used and it steps the payout counter once for every two coins ejected.
- count unit - used for jackpot accounting on meters.  Rarely used in the casinos and doesn't matter if it doesn't work ... the game probably doesn't have the meters installed anyway.
- various relays - mostly jackpot lockup and control relays for stepping some units

the hopper has:

- the payout relay
- payout counter unit
- delay relay on it.   

when scrounging for a hopper, you need one that supports electrically-stepped payout.  Many hoppers are mechanically stepped - even some used on multiplier machines - so make sure the hopper has switches being operated by the coin out pivot arm instead of a linkage to the payout counter (bally 400 manual , page 48, part #12)

A wealth of information!
Thanks.

[David Walz]

Photos, the wiring has not been butchered, it is 95% good condition.
The upper cabinet parts, everything is like a time capsule, its, dirty, grime, but not touched.

[David Walz]

Photos,

[David Walz]

Photos

[David Walz]

I've got a repair and I need to locate the wiring connector parts. Any help would be awesome.

[DavidLee]

Molex connector,
Lots of variations for these connectors.
There’s a tool to remove the actual pins and sockets.
Removal can be done with a small screwdriver like for working on eye glasses.

Possibly there’s a part number on the part.
In some cases the holes are numbered. Or best to make a diagram and match the color to the hole.
Before taking it apart.
In the past I’ve cleaned and or replaced the burnt pins and reuse the plug.
Hopefully whatever caused the damage has been corrected.

[David Walz]

I've worked with the Molex connector this one is a different shape. I just removed the wiring harness, next is to locate the burnt wire and replace it.

[David Walz]

Mint Casino Bally belly glass.

[wolftalk]

I've worked with the Molex connector this one is a different shape. I just removed the wiring harness, next is to locate the burnt wire and replace it.

some bally parts manuals refer to the connector as a "mate-n-lock".  Amp/TE makes/made a connector called mate-n-lok.

eventually they used molex series 1189/1190 (.093 round pins, 14-20ga) and series 1380/1381 (.093 round pin, 18-22ga) stuff

I've never tried to get a connector body that snaps into the bracket.  You'd need to make some measurements.  Here is the molex .093 family page:
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/standard_093

a common term for the body style is "panel mount", but molex panel mount looks different.  The mate-n-lok housing looks more like what you have ... e.g.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-171196-0.html