Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[David Walz]

I finished up the step up arm switches, Wolftalk was great in getting the wires setup. 

[David Walz]

More wiring.
Payout relay is coming together. A few wires that still need to be figured out. This is a interesting Bally decal, with a Nevada stamp. The hopper core is a 1970 model.

[David Walz]

More photos.
Delay relay unit. Payout relay coil is coming together. The motor is hopefully in good shape. The delay relay circuit micro switch needs to be installed, however I have to source parts, two screws, bracket.

[wolftalk]

looks like you have a diode on the payout relay ... it's supposed to be on the delay relay. 

there should also be a 47 ohm 1W resistor in series with the diode.

the typical installation had the resistor and diode hanging in air with insulation/sleeves on the legs to prevent shorts.

one coil lug has the black wire and - side of the capacitor - you have that right.

other coil lug has the + side of the cap and the banded end of the diode.  The unbanded end of the diode connects to the resistor and is often shrink-tubed, then the other side of the resistor connects to wire 90-1 on the delay relay switch.  Don't shrink tube the resistor itself as that reduces its ability to shed heat.

in other words, remove the gray wire from the coil lug to the switch blade and replace it with a diode and resistor in series ... or just disconnect/cut out part of the gray wire at the coil end and stick the resistor + diode in its place.  You can leave a chunk of gray wire going from the resistor to the switch so you don't need to redo the switch connection.

technically the capacitor should be 30 uF.  You have a 200 uF cap in there, but it will work ok.  The timeout will just take a little longer if there's a payout counter stepping issue.

[David Walz]

looks like you have a diode on the payout relay ... it's supposed to be on the delay relay. 

there should also be a 47 ohm 1W resistor in series with the diode.

the typical installation had the resistor and diode hanging in air with insulation/sleeves on the legs to prevent shorts.

one coil lug has the black wire and - side of the capacitor - you have that right.

other coil lug has the + side of the cap and the banded end of the diode.  The unbanded end of the diode connects to the resistor and is often shrink-tubed, then the other side of the resistor connects to wire 90-1 on the delay relay switch.  Don't shrink tube the resistor itself as that reduces its ability to shed head.

in other words, remove the gray wire from the coil lug to the switch blade and replace it with a diode and resistor in series ... or just disconnect/cut out part of the gray wire at the coil end and stick the resistor + diode in its place.  You can leave a chunk of gray wire going from the resistor to the switch so you don't need to redo the switch connection.

technically the capacitor should be 30 uF.  You have a 200 uF cap in there, but it will work ok.  The timeout will just take a little longer if there's a payout counter stepping issue.

  Will fix it, 30UF will order.

This is what I was patterning after thinking it was a delay relay that I was rebuilding from scratch, it was in terrible condition.   

[David Walz]

Ok, we have the meters wired up.

[David Walz]

Payout relay coming along, more wires.

[David Walz]

On to more good stuff. Plugs in the door replaced. 

[David Walz]

Delay relay revision. Wolftalk was great in getting me straighten out. I have a lot of capacitors but none are correct, the one I need is on order. The old capacitor is probably dried out.

[David Walz]

I have this 36-1 wire, in the beau plug #7. I'm having trouble locating where it belongs.

[wolftalk]

the diode is in backwards.  The banded end attaches to the coil.

the 100 ohm resistor may be too high - it will reduce current flow.  Whether it reduces it enough to make the cap not charge fast enough or the coil to not work right ... dunno.

if you have another 100 ohm resistor, you can put it in parallel to your existing one to make the combined resistance 50 ohms - that's close enough to the 47 ohm the circuit was designed for.

for wire 36-1, pull out the reel mech then use an ohmeter or continuity tester and confirm that 36-1 on the socket goes to the open at 4th switch on the side of the odds unit - it's a switch the peg on the ratchet opens when the odds unit is stepped up all the way.

if it is 36-1, you can ignore it ... it's not used for anything on the hopper.  Dunno why they ran it to the hopper ... none of the 809 schems show it used for anything on the hopper.

[David Walz]

the diode is in backwards.  The banded end attaches to the coil.

the 100 ohm resistor may be too high - it will reduce current flow.  Whether it reduces it enough to make the cap not charge fast enough or the coil to not work right ... dunno.

if you have another 100 ohm resistor, you can put it in parallel to your existing one to make the combined resistance 50 ohms - that's close enough to the 47 ohm the circuit was designed for.

for wire 36-1, pull out the reel mech then use an ohmeter or continuity tester and confirm that 36-1 on the socket goes to the open at 4th switch on the side of the odds unit - it's a switch the peg on the ratchet opens when the odds unit is stepped up all the way.

if it is 36-1, you can ignore it ... it's not used for anything on the hopper.  Dunno why they ran it to the hopper ... none of the 809 schems show it used for anything on the hopper.

Ill get it done. 

[David Walz]

the diode is in backwards.  The banded end attaches to the coil.

the 100 ohm resistor may be too high - it will reduce current flow.  Whether it reduces it enough to make the cap not charge fast enough or the coil to not work right ... dunno.

if you have another 100 ohm resistor, you can put it in parallel to your existing one to make the combined resistance 50 ohms - that's close enough to the 47 ohm the circuit was designed for.

for wire 36-1, pull out the reel mech then use an ohmeter or continuity tester and confirm that 36-1 on the socket goes to the open at 4th switch on the side of the odds unit - it's a switch the peg on the ratchet opens when the odds unit is stepped up all the way.

if it is 36-1, you can ignore it ... it's not used for anything on the hopper.  Dunno why they ran it to the hopper ... none of the 809 schems show it used for anything on the hopper.

36-1 got it. Ordered up the part, I don't have it, I do have others.

[David Walz]

Cleaned up the reels. What a mess.

[David Walz]

Starting to take shape.

[wolftalk]

you paid attention to the orientation of the slotted metal index disks, right?

the slots have to match the symbols on the reel tapes.

if ya weren't paying attention, there is a reference hole drilled in the disk.  The three pics below should explain how the reference hole corresponds to the top of a reel tape.

slot 1 is above the mounting screw that is clockwise from the reference hole.

[David Walz]

you paid attention to the orientation of the slotted metal index disks, right?

the slots have to match the symbols on the reel tapes.

if ya weren't paying attention, there is a reference hole drilled in the disk.  The three pics below should explain how the reference hole corresponds to the top of a reel tape.

slot 1 is above the mounting screw that is clockwise from the reference hole.

I mark each wheel to the reel to keep them correct. However, if some bozo screwed them up obviously I wouldn't have known until you showed me the alignment procedure. Thanks, I will go and check every reel for proper positioning.

 

[David Walz]

I was working on the carriage and wiper assembly.
The other one was difficult to work with, the switch, stop, were not aligning up, and since I have three of these parts, I put this assembly on, and the problems are resolved.I believe it is adjusted behind the 3 on the contact plate, as well as the other two sets of contacts on the carriage.

[David Walz]

The reels are a spinning! Before cleaning they were pretty slow as snot. On the steel I used some major cleaning solution, on the reel strips, I spent a lot of time cleaning them, being careful with them.

[David Walz]

I was blessed to have a father in law who was a pack rat. I have his OLD tools, electronics, a whole lot of OLD soldering guns, electrical tools, testers, etc.

Did I say OLD, which is a better made tool, and so life is awesome.