Bally 1114 Leaf Switch Assistance Needed

[SeaBiscuit]

NEED ASSISTANCE: Looking for open/closed circuit information for a Bally 1114- 3 coin, left-right pay machine. The leaf switch stack in question is located on the right interior of the cabinet activated by both a relay and arm pull. There are 9 leaves, and I am struggling with the correct closed-circuit combinations for the 3 stages of the lever which activates the respective switches. Usually this type of situation doesn't stump me, but I thought I'd spend less time creating a graphic to explain my questions, than stumbling through incorrect combinations.
In my images I photographed the lever positions, and created graphics to detail the switch profile, wire color, and respective lever movements. In short, if I am able to find the correct closed circuits for stages 1,2, and 3, I would be very thankful. So thankful, that I'll get off my butt and become a regular contributing member.

[SeaBiscuit]

Photos of lever sequence.

[DavidLee]

It appears the center contacts are NOT changing position.

Photo attached

[SeaBiscuit]

DavidLee, thanks much for the reply. That's a bit of an illusion. There's a leaf insulator between those contacts, and they do break in the middle and lever up positions. That said, I really need the full breakdown of the closed circuits for all 3 respective positions of that lever.

[SeaBiscuit]

UPDATE: After finding a photo from David Walz excellent 1114 resto topic: Bally 1114 full restoration, I managed to find a photo of the leaf switch configuration in the middle lever position. As detailed in my revised graphic, the top 6 circuits appear to be closed in the middle lever position. At this stage, I now have the machine functioning, playing, paying, except it does not recognize a second or third coin insertion. Any assistance is appreciated. (David's photo and my graphic interpretation below)

[wolftalk]

I haven't verified, but I'd be surprised if the switch state while the lever is moving matters.

the handle release relay is electrically tripped via the coil, and mechanically reset via the lever.  The relay armature plate latches the mechanism in the reset state.

I'm pretty sure all you care about is the switches obviously change state between the latched and tripped positions of the relay.

if the second coin is returning to the tray, ignore the below and check the switches poking out over the ratchet/gear on the coin unit.  How those work depend on whether you have a coin lockout coil behind the coin mech (typically 25c machine) or a coin scavenger solenoid on the side of the coin mech ($1).

the coining sequence is:
---------------------------

1] when the coin switch tripwire goes down the first time after a spin, the coin relay trips.

2] when the tripwire goes back up, the handle release relay trips.

3] the next time the coin switch tripwire goes down, the coin unit step-up relay should power and keep itself powered

4] when the coin switch tripwire goes up, the coin unit step-up solenoid coil should power.  When the plunger pulls into the coil, a switch on the step-up arm opens and the coin unit step-up relay loses power, which in turn unpowers the coin unit step-up coil and the wipers on the unit move one position.

5] third coin repeats [3] and [4], then a switch on the coin unit causes additional coins to reject to the tray.

ya can curse bally for naming two different things "coin unit step-up relay" and "coin unit step-up coil" ... the second is the solenoid (coin with a plunger going into it) on the coin unit.

coin the game once, then look at the coin unit step-up relay while holding down the coin switch tripwire the second time.  Is it powered?

if yes and the coin unit step-up relay immediately unpowered when you let go of the coin switch ... and the coin unit step-up coil didn't power ... check the coin unit step-up arm switch and switch on the coin unit step-up relay with the orange/white and brown/red wires.
   

[SeaBiscuit]

I haven't verified, but I'd be surprised if the switch state while the lever is moving matters. > Agreed, I don't believe WHILE it is moving.

the handle release relay is electrically tripped via the coil, and mechanically reset via the lever.  The relay armature plate latches the mechanism in the reset state.> Agreed, tripped via the coil release AFTER the first coin is dropped.

if the second coin is returning to the tray, ignore the below and check the switches poking out over the ratchet/gear on the coin unit.  How those work depend on whether you have a coin lockout coil behind the coin mech (typically 25c machine) or a coin scavenger solenoid on the side of the coin mech ($1). > I should have been more clear, the second coin was simply dropping to the hopper without the 2nd coin being "recognized".

ya can curse bally for naming two different things "coin unit step-up relay" and "coin unit step-up coil" ... the second is the solenoid (coin with a plunger going into it) on the coin unit. > I thought I was cursing under my breath.

if yes and the coin unit step-up relay immediately unpowered when you let go of the coin switch ... and the coin unit step-up coil didn't power ... check the coin unit step-up arm switch and switch on the coin unit step-up relay with the orange/white and brown/red wires. > This is exactly spot on. 
   
After a late night, David Walz photos, and wolftalk's spot-on breakdown, all is well in the world of Bally 1114.
I've updated my graphic to reflect the contact sequence for the 3 stages. The remaining issue I have is the win meter, and winner paid light occasionally stay lit. I'm sure I can track that bug, but want to thank the NLG community for the assistance. Now I'll go make good on my initial promise 

[wolftalk]

Nice diagram, tho it does have a couple errors (top switch behaviour and intended wire colors) ... so I stole it and expanded it to show the schematic :-) 

I did toss the intermediate image where the switches are changing state.  Generally on the SPDT switch (the one with the middle moving/long blade contacting a blade above or below), you want to disconnect from the currently touching contact before connecting to the other one.   In practice, it rarely matters. 

Occasionally you'll see a note that says the switch should be MBB (make before break) - in this case, all three blades should be connected together when the moving blade is switching position, but the moving blade only connects to one of the other blade when it stops.

Hopefully it makes sense to someone.

[SeaBiscuit]

wolftalk, thanks for the update and insight on MBB. In reference to the 3 stage graphic, and to clarify, the intermediate stage graphic (stage 2) represents the relay off, lever locked, ready for first coin to be dropped. This illustration represents a static-locked position, and is not meant to illustrate the arbitrary midpoint of a lever in movement.
Stage 1 in my diagram represents the lever/switch status after the first coin is dropped, the relay off, lever released and drops down. Again a static positioning of the lever.
Stage 3 illustrates the position the lever takes when the external player-arm is pulled all the way forward, and subsequently, the small mechanical plunger rod inside pushes the lever upward.
I hope this explanation makes sense.

[wolftalk]

oh, ok. 

the actual switch state in stage 2 and 3 is the same.  In stage 3, the lever peg has just deflected the upper blades a little more.  That overtravel helps mechanically scrub the switch contacts as they slide across each other a bit, so it's a good thing.

I'm not budging on ya forgot to open the top switch in stage 1 :-)  In stage 2, the long blade with the grey wire should be sitting on the peg on the lever and getting pushed up enough to slightly deflect the top blade upwards.

'course, if your game actually has the top switch stuck closed, you may never notice.  The switch is helping prevent a switch timing issue from allowing a person who pulled the handle very slowly possibly get paid again for the win on the reels from the previous spin.   However, other switches would have to be timed just right for that to happen.

[SeaBiscuit]

You are absolutely correct on the stage 1 top switch open circuit. Thanks again wolftalk.  That said, the game play/pays the same, which if I am understanding you correctly, makes sense.
 Super interesting on the over-travel design to help clean the contacts.  That and the top-switch situation with the slow handle pull possibly getting double pay on the reels from the previous spin. I love learning this stuff, and thank you again for the clarity and depth of explanation.
Craig