PE PLUS POKER

[gametech2]

Pictures have to be less than 1MB in size in order to post on the forum.  So resize as necessary to get under that limitation and post away.

Got a new piece of Linux software resizes the best, and fast!   And FREE!!

Got it all figured out.

It's called Switcheroo, and you have to have flatpak enabled to use it. If you are a linux user, which I have been since 2006 or so. Dose not make me an expert, I just don't like the bloatware that windowz is.
............jb

[Tilt]

Ok good deal.  My favorite price too...Free 

[jay]

If you’re using a cell phone camera - email to yourself - you will be prompted to reduce.

[Chris-socal]

Regarding that cap voltage, yes, it is recommended to bump up to 50v but its ok to use a new 25v if thats what you have. They worked for 25 years!
Retrace lines can be flyback screen pot if someone has been “trying everything “. Beware, Ceronix pots have a reputation of biting, just last week I had one zap so loud it sounded like a movie sound effect, it went through my fingers to the frame. Thank goodness I had my right hand behind my back.
The pot might have red loctite, to break it use pliers that have a rounded out gnurled grip….grab the knob and give it one strong turn. It will either break free or strip some plastic off the knob. If its stuck locked its likely your retrace lines are from something else. Or the flyback is dying.
Once you replace the battery you should be able to reset by pressing the white button by the power switch. Sometimes you have to close and open the door a few times too.

Chris

[gametech2]

If you’re using a cell phone camera - email to yourself - you will be prompted to reduce.

Great tip! Didn't know that one.
thanx........jb

[gametech2]

well, just got stirring  here this morning, it's only 08:35 here in Arkansas.
This has me excited to try to get it running.
I was worried that the board may have lost its memory.
thanks, I remember my first jolt of High Voltage! No fun!!
thanx....jb

[gametech2]

Regarding that cap voltage, yes, it is recommended to bump up to 50v but its ok to use a new 25v if thats what you have. They worked for 25 years!
Retrace lines can be flyback screen pot if someone has been “trying everything “. Beware, Ceronix pots have a reputation of biting, just last week I had one zap so loud it sounded like a movie sound effect, it went through my fingers to the frame. Thank goodness I had my right hand behind my back.
The pot might have red loctite, to break it use pliers that have a rounded out gnurled grip….grab the knob and give it one strong turn. It will either break free or strip some plastic off the knob. If its stuck locked its likely your retrace lines are from something else. Or the flyback is dying.
Once you replace the battery you should be able to reset by pressing the white button by the power switch. Sometimes you have to close and open the door a few times too.

Chris

Yes, that's what I did, since it had a 25v cap, put in a new one, still waiting on a new 50v one to replace it with.
 I will have to look at the parts list to see what battery I need to order.
thanx......jb

[Chris-socal]

Any 3.6v non-rechargeable lithium battery. In a pinch you use a couple AA or a pack of 3 nicads bench charged temporarily, someone can correct me here but I don’t think that board is picky. If you get the voltage around 3v it will probably reset.

[jay]

That would be accurate.
I personally would not use Nicad as there is no Charge mechanism and Nicads in particular are designed to go through recharge cycles and don’t hold a charge as long as a conventional battery.

[Chris-socal]

Right. I just meant if he needs to reset the machine while waiting for a battery.
Some of us keep Lithium batteries on hand at all times but not everyone has a need.
PEs are so easy to work on it wouldn’t be hard to pull the board and replace the temporary one.

[Chris-socal]

JB:  I was looking at some of the troubleshooting documents over the weekend and I was reminded of something. If you get the rest of your capacitors replaced and you still have retrace lines,  check the screen pot on the flyback (as we discussed). If the pot is sealed there is one other option I would look at before trying to break the loctite:

Anyone who has seen my posts on the 1492 boards knows I preach "There is no need to replace the big power capacitors"...because there is virtually never a reason to replace them. I have seen caps from the earliest of 1492 production years in the late 80's and they are usually good. However, if 317 is out of ESR tolerance one of the symptoms is retrace lines that won't go away regardless of how low you turn the flyback. I have only had to replace 317 once and it was because the capacitor was physically damaged / the leads were broken...but according to the repair logs replacing that capacitor fixed retrace lines.
 
Those caps are either 150uf or 220uf (newer boards were upgraded to 220uf). If ESR is 5Ω or under it's probably fine, they are usually under 2Ω though. I would replace if over 5Ω for sure. As mentioned before PRA-H (Horizontal board or the 10uf surface mount capacitor on it)or one of the PRA-B color boards, or a broken trace in the area around them. There is one color board per color and if any one of those or one of the 3 transistors around each one has a broken trace or is not working it will mess your entire image up.  I always say this, especially to younger people working on these boards; I don't care how good your vision is, to find a broken trace on a Ceronix board requires a magnifier. The joints often break underneath the solder so you cannot see the break unless you are flexing the component while looking at the solder joint.


Chris

[gametech2]

Thanks Chris,
I have a bigger problem to address now!! I have a screen, but I have a data loss.
I will try to post some screen shots.
 As far as the g2 pot goes, someone has been goobering all around with this monitor, and yea, the loctite is already broke loose.
I tuned it off, and took out the top panel, and slowly, a small bit at a time, backed it down with the power off, then restarted it each time till I got a somewhat decent screen.
 But like I mentioned, I have  "  DOOR OPEN   CALL ATTENDANT  CMOS DATA  "  error on screen.
I have 26 volt ac power to the coin comparitor, but no response from a coin drop.
when I got the machine, there were quarters jammed in the coin chute, someone had tried to force it to work I guess.  There were quarters and tokens scattered all through the machine, under the power supply and some one had tried to glue a broken fuse holder back together. Obviously a non technical genius sort of fellow!
anyway, I have screenshots of the data display, and it aint purdy!!
 I will post some of them as soon as I can get them reduced to a reasonable size.
Using the reset key, it will step through the first initial pages, but when you get down to the " current game " page, it is scrambled!!
The new batteries came in today, and I hopped right on it, hoping that it would fix the problem, but no such luck.
I checked the 4 eproms tags against the data on the pages, they show the correct numbers, so I am thinking the RAM is bad, apparently either the completely dead battery, which had 0.01 volts or so,  or the coins laying across the power supply leads, or SOMETHING unknown happened that zapped the RAM chip.
 Next project, where do I find a new chip, and program it for this thing.
I am going to replace the 3 large caps just because I have them in stock, and it could be the problem. I just hope the " GENIUS "  did not do something stupid, like try to tweak the horizontal frequency coil, or something.
 Anyway, it's late, I'm rambling.........Long Day..........

Thanx Chris..........................jb

[jay]

Open the door, press the white test button about 3 times.
Close the door.

The cmos error should be gone.

[gametech2]

Ok, so here are a few pictures LOL.

I thought my meter had died!

[gametech2]

So, I checked the new battery just to be sure, then removed the old one, and checked it again.
replaced the battery, pushed the reset button a few times, and now with the door closed the light is off, and " CALL ATTENDANT " is on.

[gametech2]

But here is the real problem!!

[gametech2]

So this is the display chipset eproms. Could this be the problem?

[jay]

In image 2024 812 7

You have white lines on the screen. That is a monitor problem.
The screen looks too washed out and over driven.

The glitched graphics later on could be an issue with the graphics chipset.

You have 4 chips MGO, MRO, MBO and MXO
And a small chip called a cap rom. (Capx on a super board)
If the cap chip is bad or poorly seated you get the glitched graphics.

The game itself is Teo chips a Game chip and a data chip.

The graphic chipset is supposed to match the data chip.
There is a spreadsheet that lists what chips go with what game.

If they don’t match then the colors are wrong or you have wonky card backs.
This won’t cause the glitch but the set should match.

It’s late and I just got up to let the dog out for his nightly constitutional.
I will look up the chipsets numbers in the morning if someone else doesn’t post back first.

Interm if your looking for something to do re-seat that cap rom

[gametech2]

Thanx Jay.
I will try that this morning.
I just got up with my pooch also..........jb

[Chris-socal]

Yeah, that garbage display doesn’t worry me, Jay or someone will get you through that. If you look at PE posts we see that problem often. 50% of the time re-seating fixes the problem. 50% of the time its a mismatch exactly as Jay said.

The proper way to set a flyback on a 1492 is to set pin 8 of 146 to somewhere around 4v. I have seen them with a beautiful image at 2v though. But, if you turn the flyback down a little bit and retrace lines don’t go away the problem is not the screenpot adjustment.  I wouldn’t run it too long like that.


Chris