IGT 4th of July Issue Help Door Open Coin-In Timeout???

[nathancarlson.ws]

Hello everyone. Thank you for your help I appreciate it.

I bought a 1990 IGT S+ "4th of July" Slot Machine with the CRT. It had some rust on the bottom of cabinet from mice using it as a toilet and water damage. Everything worked! So I took it apart to remove the rust and corrosion and paint it up nice. Upon putting it back together it turns on but im getting this message on the screen "Door Open" "Coin-In Timeout"? The door sensors worked before I took it apart. I also did not remove anything on the front door I kept that part intact. When I had it all apart I cleaned all the wiring and circuit boards and check for broken traces but everything was good. I also noticed on the coin comparator the green light is not on? I also cannot get the jackpot key to go into the jackpot menu any more and the white push button to get into test mode doesnt do anything? I did not check the button before I took it apart as everything functioned. I have attached some pictures before and after. What do you think I should do?

[nathancarlson.ws]

More pics

[sixcardmark]

That is not an S+ machine.

[nathancarlson.ws]

What kind of machine is it? I was just going by the serial tag on the cabinet?

[Stayouttadabunker]

I circled the 2-pin Molex connectors that are for the door optics.
Plug them in together, close the door and see if the "Door Open" message goes away?

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[nathancarlson.ws]

Oh sorry I had them plugged in but then I was trying to bypass them to see if it would work. Even with the door one pugged in and the cabinet one plugged in it still has the door open message.

[Stayouttadabunker]

... Even with the door one pugged in and the cabinet one plugged in it still has the door open message...

Yeah...plugged in could help but you don't know if one of them is burned out or not.
You need to check also if are they're lined up when the door is closed.
To check, you can use the diagnostic flip cards (Output Test#24, page 6)
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0 
or just watch the [Coins Played] window on the reel glass display to see if the number in there momentarily goes out as the latch is fully pushed all the way down.
If the number goes out for a couple of seconds, that means the door emitter is "seeing" the cabinet receiver optics.
Another way to check the door emitter optic is to look at it with a digital camera like your cellphone cam.
You should see a blue-ish flickering of infrared light.

[nathancarlson.ws]

Ok so the number does not go blank when the door is closed. It did before I took it apart though so it was working. I cannot use the flash card instructions as I cannot enter the test menu with the push button and i do not see any light coming from either sensor with my phone cam. I'm thinking there is power missing from the door sensor, coin comparitor, and the push button test menu. Any one have a wire schematic I can track down any common connectors with. Its just weird as I never took the door apart.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Only the door emitter optic would emit infrared light - if it was operational.
The cabinet receiver optic does as its name implies - it "receives" light.

You said you tried to bypass the optics.
Done incorrectly, you can very easily burn out the chips on the main MPU circuit board that control the optics, or the optics themselves.
Keep this up, you will be pulling Benjamins out of your wallet.

"...I'm thinking there is power missing from the door sensor, coin comparitor, and the push button test menu..."

Have you tested with a multimeter to see if you blew any fuses on the power supply when you tried to bypass the door optics?
Top fuse 6A
Middle Fuse 8A
Bottom Fuse 6A
Quick-blow fuses only.
They should have a very thin wire filament inside the glass vial.

There's wiring schematics that aren't available to you, because you are not yet a Contributing Member of NLG.
Now's a good time to consider making a contribution to NLG.
Scroll to the bottom of this page and you can see the Subscription Link.

[knagl]

I'm moving this to the PE+ section -- this appears to be a Player's Edge Plus machine.

[BrianT]

Because IGT PE+ Video Slot machines are so rare, could you please post good hi-res pics of the mainboard (PCB) with clear shots of the program ROM and the CG ROMs with color CAP.  It's not too often these are seen out in the wild in a private user's hands as they are almost always converted to some type of poker machine.  Thank you!

BrianT

[jay]

Hi,

Typically when the door has been opened, you will get a door closed message afterwards which will remain until the first game is played.
Yours says door open which means it is not seeing the door closed.
Using a cell phone as a camera you should be able to look at the door optics. The emitter will be slightly flashing on the camera. Its invisible to the naked eye.
If its not flashing then there is an issue with the optics and they likely need to be replaced.
If they are flashing then it might be alignment as the two should mate together when the door is closed.

The coin comparator will not have its light on when the door is open. This is a bit of a red-herring. To your problem, with the door closed you can put in a camera through the belly glass door and sneak it up and prove to yourself that its on - however until you get the above problem dealt with this will not be coming on as it thinks the door is open.

The coin in error is typically caused by a coin not making it all the way through.
The coin is first compared to the sample coin in the comparator then it passes through an ABC optic board directly below it.
The purpose of this optic is to ensure the coin is heading down past the three optic sensors in order A-B-C, one of the simple cheats is to put a coin on a string and pull it back up and let the same coin re-validate over and over. If the coin does not fall at the right rate, or it reverses course (as would a coin on a string would do) you will get a coin in error. Alternatively no power to the optic or the absence of the wiring harness on the comparator would cause the same error.

The lack of functionality of the jackpot reset key - typically when you get a big win - ie top two awards the machine goes into a hand pay condition and you need to use the jackpot reset key to clear the condition. All other times - when the door is closed puts the machine into slot statistics mode.  This won't happen with the door - open condition.

The white reset or test button won't do anything if there are credits on the machine. You are unable to clear the credits if your door is open and you have a coin-in error. You need to fix the previous errors, clear the credits (presumably through playing them or cashing out) then the button should resume functionality.

[nathancarlson.ws]

I resolved the issue. The Door Optics were bad so I replaced those. I also found  Resistor R2 on the motherboard was testing out of spec which prevented me from entering the test menu with the white button. I ended up replacing the motherboard as I had to repair about 25 traces that were corroded by mouse feces. On the new to me motherboard I got off ebay I found the C1 capacitor was bad and causing a CMOS error and again wouldn't let me enter test mode. I replaced that capacitor with the good one from the old board and walla! The Machine is working again! I have a few more new setting issues to resolve but I will make a new post as its not relevant to this one. Also I believe this is a Players Edge Plus game inside a S+ Cabinet because it has the cut out for the pull handle but these machines didn't have the handle and the crt monitor has a label from a poker machine. So it may be hacked together but its hard to find another 4th of July one like this.

[jay]

This is a PE+ for sure.
There is a whole list of slot games that can run on the PE+
Just by changing the chips you can make it into a poker machine.
Some even were keno machines with a light pen.

Only a select few of the PE+ ever had slot arms.
It was more common for older S+ and older Pe+ that did not have bill validators to have what is referred to as a side car. This was a bolt on bill validator. Those side cars were as ugly as sin.

As to your eBay purchase. I would recommend that if you need parts you contact the vendors on the NLG home page. Call and don’t rely on their websites. These are the good vendors that we give a banner too. We don’t sell banner spots - and the way they get their banner is by treating NLG members right. You won’t get bad boards etc. with that said NLG does not get involved in vendor disputes but our experience is that these are the ones that make things right.

Super glad you posted back with your resolved issue.