Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 27843 times)

fixinstuff · « **on:** December 06, 2014, 02:06:20 AM »

Hi again guys. Found this on craigslist. I have had good luck with the wild cherry igt slot and am wondering if this is worth working on? I haven't talked to them yet about what the problem is. Is it a hard slot to work on? http://denver.craigslist.org/clt/4773685663.html

GOS · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2014, 05:15:52 AM »

this is a E-series bally - has credit play feature - uses standard e-series boards - does have a credit board which are very reliable - may also have sound.
It is a VERY LARGE MACHINE - so be prepared to strain yourself moving it.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2014, 09:16:48 AM »

OK. Thanks GOS. I'm going today to try and check it out. If I get it, I'm sure I'll be back here! John

fixinstuff · « **Reply #3 on:** December 24, 2014, 12:39:08 AM »

Well for better or worse, I got the slot. And or course it doesn''t work. Won't be doing much over Christmas/New Year but some pictures are attached; more if anyone asks later. It is a E2304-16...marked on the side name tag and on the game chip. Has a display board in the upper box and an unknown little board mounted on the bottom right side. This little board has two little round "windows" where maybe a light indicator or something might shine through? Have not taken it off to see whats on the back side! Look forward to working on it and with your help getting it going again. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks.
Seen ya all next year!!

fixinstuff · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2015, 01:10:29 PM »

Well, guess it's time to get serious about getting this slot to work. I think it's close to working. I've checked/repaired all the ribbon cables. I've run the manual tests. Checked and cleaned all the connections. I have some of the manuals. All the manual tests seem to be OK. It does not have a tower light. There is no battery...does it need one? Here's the status... Plug into 110v, open door turn on...all reels index, door open buzzer is on, lights are on. Close/lock door, insert coin is ON, drop in coin and coin accepted is ON, door open buzzer is still on and buzzing. Pull handle, reels spin...and spin...and spin...do not index or stop at all. Kick switch and arm switch seem to be OK on the reel assembly. I checked the door open switch (cherry switch and it seems to be working OK. (it is hooked up so as to be closed when door is opened) Well, I'm thinking the door open buzzer being active whether the door is open or closed is a good clue, but don't know where else to look. Thanks to anyone available to work with me. And by the way, I'm John

GOS · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2015, 01:57:04 PM »

do a 5 test - most likely it will come up all zeroes - bad io board - reader control board.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2015, 02:21:26 PM »

Thanks, GOS. I did a 5 test and it looks good to me. The display shows numbers that correspond to the symbols and the numb ers check out on all the reels. For example the "star" corresponds to the number 3 and 3 shows in the display (in the correct location) where ever the star is (payline or wheel) . During the test I can move the reels around and the correct numbers show for all the reels on all 3 paylines. The door open buzzer being on all the time I think is a problem. And what actually causes the wheels to index?

GOS · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2015, 02:55:27 PM »

check the kick switch

fixinstuff · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2015, 03:08:05 PM »

The kick switch is closed at rest and opens when the handle is pulled. It measures no voltage at rest, then has 4.9vdc when the handle is pulled. Measured between the 2 switch contacts.

GOS · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2015, 03:15:06 PM »

check the wiring from the kick switch to the IO board Check the ARM switch too.

Amechanic · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2015, 04:08:52 PM »

Have you checked your power supply voltages and the soldering of the pin connectors on the same board? Couple other thing to try is cleaning the pin connections on your I/O board. A pink eraser works great. I would also look at your molex plug connections at the reels to cabinet connection. I have found broken and or bad connections there.

Gary

fixinstuff · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2015, 05:08:54 PM »

GOS and Amechanic. The power supply voltages are within .2 volts of desired so I'm thinking they are OK. The voltage to the I/O board is 4.9vdc. When checking the wires, I found one of the molex connections was broken in the white plug on the reel mech. I could just jumper around the plug for that wire to see what difference it will make, but I want to find some molex connections to fix it right. The broken one is a double blue (or green) and doesn't look like it is involved with the kick or arm. I did clean up the connections on the kick and arm switches so they both have good tight connectrions now. Gotta go eat now and will get back on later (tonight or tomorrow). Thanks, John PS: GOS you were right on...I did not have continuity from the kick and arm to the molex plugs...I had checked the switches and they were OK, but had not checked for continuity...my bad!

fixinstuff · « **Reply #12 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:03:26 PM »

well I got the molex connector fixed. And this is where I'm at. The buzzer still is on all the time so I unpluged it because it was getting hot. I tried the manual tests again. I can't run #5. All I get is "5 0 0 0 0 0" when I press the test switch 5 times and hold it down on the 5th press. When I release the test switch, I get "0 0 0 0 0 5" and nothing else happens. I push the coin switch wire and nothing happens.
**#2 seems to work OK...everything seems to work as supposed to except the buzzer isn't indexed and there isn't any tower light to turn on. All 5 reel sol are indexed in test #2.

**#3. I'm not sure about.
coin switch: when pressed displays 3_ _001 and 3_ _120 when released
door hinge switch: when pressed display doesn't change
hopper level switch: when pressed displays 300004 and 300000 when released
start to pull handle switch: when pressed displays 3_0204 and 300000 when released
hopper switch: when pressed displays 300000 and 3_ _002 when released
kick switch: when pressed displays 300000 and 3_ _010 when released
arm switch: when pressed displays 300000 and 3_ 0000 when released
loser "key reset" when pressed displays 300000 and 3_ 0220 when released

**#4 hopper pays out 10 coins and display displays 4_ _ 010

**#5 while holding test switch down on 5th push displays 000005 and 00000_ when released (cannot do any more in #5)

**#6 when released, shows 551383 (the number on the IC)

**#7 displays 17, 18, 19, 20, and then 50_ 0000

**#8 displays 000008 and 800000 when released

After #8 close and lock door displays 50_000 with insert coin light on

Insert 1 coin and accept is on and insert is also on (if insert 2 more coins then insert light goes off)

pull handle, reels spin and displays _0_000

reels do not stop...nothing else happens...payline 1 is still on, but cannot pull handle again.

Power supply voltages are 4.88, 6.99, and 9.44

Don't know where else to go next? Thanks, thanks, thanks. John

fixinstuff · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:15:52 PM »

A follow up to my last post. I checked test #8 further. During #8 test I can push the coin switch 1, 2, or three times and then pull the handle and the reels will index (stop). and displays 830000 (after pushing coinswitch 3 times). Don't know what that means, but maybe is a good sign? John

Amechanic · « **Reply #14 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:31:25 PM »

If your machine has 5V reel reader boards they have led admitters. You won't see them light up. In test 5 you want to unlatch your reels so you can rotate them and watch for your win meter display to change as the symbols change on each reel. Have you checked your connections of the plugs on the reel reader as well as the control board located in the inside front wall of the reel carrier? Your power supply voltages seem a bit low. I know if they drop too much, your machine will not operate correctly.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #15 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:04:10 PM »

Thanks, amechnic. I know the power supply is low, but I think within the acceptable range. Yes it uses the 5v LEDs. Couple of days ago, test #5 worked great. But since then, I've (1)fixed the broken wire on the reel mech white molex connection, (2)reset all the ICs on the MPU, (3)checked and re plugged all the ribbon connections/pins, (4)removed, checked pins and reset the two little boards on the I/O board. Everything seems to go back together OK...maybe I should cut that wire again on the molex connection!

PS: I did release all the reels for the #5 test and it appears that there is no voltage to the LEDs (haven't checked for voltgage yet at the reel boards or the reel mech board) I need to study the schematics to see where the boards get power. I've checked the 6 fuses on the fuse block and the fuses are OK. Possibly the connection on the power supply board isn't sending any voltage to the boards.

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:26:30 PM »

My friend here Dan Ellis is the expert on these boards and voltages. He goes by the name of dhellis here. I'm surprised he has not chummed in on your problem? It's possible because your header doesn't say it's an E-Series, just a 5 reel. You could try to send him a PM to see if he could read your post and ask his advice.
He could explain the power supply's voltages.

Gary

fixinstuff · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06, 2015, 09:41:48 PM »

That's a really good idea. I'll PM him. Is there any way to change the title of this thread? I was wondering why there were no e-series people . Thanks

Amechanic · « **Reply #18 on:** January 06, 2015, 10:19:52 PM »

I just sent a message to the moderator to list this under the Bally E2000 section. If you look at the bottom of any post there is a link to them.. Hopefully we can get this corrected.

dhellis · « **Reply #19 on:** January 06, 2015, 10:35:10 PM »

I have this board on notify but did not get any messages about a new topic, that is why I didn't jump in.

Fixingstuff, you mentioned trying to figure out how the reel reader get turned on. There are 2 things that
need to happen. First Q32 on the IO board needs to turn on to supply voltage, the boards are turned on when
pin 11 of the boards is biased low. I have found that placing a 3K ohm resistor between pin 11 and pin 14 of
the reel reader card is sufficient to turn on the IR Emitters. If you have a 5 volt DC source you can apply
the 5 volts to pin 16 (positive) and pin 14 (ground) then attach the 3K resistor between pin 11 and ground. This
will turn on all of the emitters. You can then measure the voltage of each of the emitters on pins 1,3,5,7 and 9
You should read somewhere around 3.0 volts. As you measure each emitter, block the light and voltage should
drop to near 0 volts.

You power supply has 3 voltages UR, ZC and 5 volts. UR has to be above 8 volts since this is the input for
the 5 volt regulator and that requires at least 8 volts in order to maintain regulation. ZC will be close to 10 volts
but only at full load (drawing 1 amp) When I test these I use resistors to produce load so when drawing 1/2
amp I see ZC down around 8.5 volts but at near 10 volts when drawing a full amp.
The 5 volt regulators have a spec of 4.75 to 5.2 volts and logic chips will operate at 4.5 volts. I personally do not like to
cut it that close so if the voltage is low suspect the 2 mfd cap on the output of the regulator and if UR looks to be about
half of normal check the 4 individual diodes, very low UR then the bridge rectifier or 11.5K capacitor could be at fault.

I wrote up some test procedures for testing reel readers and power supplies and they are sitting at

http://www.coinslots.com/tips/bally-e-series/ That website is owned by another NLG member.

All 0's on test 5 can be the reel reader decoder board or U8 on the IO board

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 27843 times)