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Author Topic: IGT S/S+ Machine diagnosis  (Read 90 times)

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Offline Billiardsnit

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IGT S/S+ Machine diagnosis
« on: Yesterday at 02:22:49 PM »
I just acquired a 1996 IGT $1 Triple Double machine in a package deal with a Japanese Pachi slot. I repair Japanese slots as a side hobby but have never stepped into the American machine realm so this is my first experience with them. After much research, I'm assuming this is an S/S+ machine but beyond that, I can't seem to find much info on it. I'd like to get it going again, but I have a few questions, I hope the experienced here can answer.

Seller claimed this machine and the pachi was acquired in a house cleanout of a relative that had recently passed. Machine didn't work when he hauled it out so I'm in the dark on its past. Remnants of Illinois inspection stickers are inside so I assume its last rodeo was in Illinois, and it has the rewards advert sticker stating Empress Rewards where the card acceptor existed. I have all the keys to it and 1000 gold $1 Caesars Tokens that were included. Upon plugging in the machine and flipping on the power, nothing happens except the $1 light turns on and the reels jump and lock up, there is no maiden spin, candle light, or numbers illuminated on the 7-segment displays. All the florescent lights were bad, but the fixtures are getting voltage from the power supply. I have checked the fuses inside the power supply and they are good and correct 6/8/6 amp. The wiring harness that goes from the power supply to the motherboard is good and not burnt, checking with a multimeter, all pins are live and it is making a solid connection with the motherboard. Pulling the MPU, I found that diode D3 was crispy but there is continuity, neighboring CR12 diode has no continuity but is not burnt. The memory battery (I assume), a 3.6v lithium cell battery (Not a Varta) soldered to the board read 0v and was clearly dead, I replaced with a temporary 3.7v lithium battery I had on hand and changed nothing. Model on the board is 75505704 Rev B and it has the chip SP731 installed for the game prom. Pulling the IC-33 coin comparitor, it has a blank coin slug installed for $1 tokens,  the rake has been bent and the wiring harness that would connect the CC to the inner workings is missing. The CC has a 6 pin JST molex connection that would connect to a 3 pin connector of a neighboring harness.

I assume this MPU is fried at the least. Does anyone think replacing the diodes and possibly a few neighboring resistors and capacitors will get the board to boot? If not, does someone has this MPU that they would be willing to part with?

What went onto the board where the clips are at U47 next to the mosfet? The mosfet was bent over into the middle of those clips at some point.

This machine no longer has a bill acceptor installed and I would like to keep it that way for now. Does it appear that the correct chips are installed for it to run on tokens only?

I would like to make a new wiring harness to adapt this CC to the harness inside the machine. Does anyone know the plug identification for the 3 pin connector inside? Does anyone know the wiring config to correctly wire this plug into the JST 6 pin connector?

If anyone has any wiring diagrams, parts lists, or anything useful for this machine, it would be much appreciated. I know IGT and other manufacturers are very secretive of their schematics.


Offline Stayouttadabunker

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Re: IGT S/S+ Machine diagnosis
« Reply #1 on: Yesterday at 04:54:06 PM »
 :NLG_WELCOME:
You might want to get a hold of member Lookes and see if he can take a look :sherlock: at your MPU.
That D3 component got way overheated.  :burningresistor:
Lookes would be able to test to see if it can be repaired or not.

The CC harness is pretty simple.
Member Jim would probably have one of those for sale for you.
His phone number's on the NLG homepage up where the member/vendors are located.
He works at Midwest Slots.

Change out the slug to one of the $1 Ceasar tokens.
You really want the CC to compare the coins like a real slot machine.
I don't know why they threw a slug in there...the sample coin should always match the coins you're using.

If not, bend back the rake or remove it entirely.
Two Philips screws and unplugging the 2-pin JST connector with the gray wires going to the top of the CC.

Remember, the more you tell us - the better we can help you!

Consider becoming a regular contributing member, which helps pay costs to keep this site up and running so you can keep your machine up and running :)

Offline Billiardsnit

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Re: IGT S/S+ Machine diagnosis
« Reply #2 on: Today at 08:27:37 AM »

Ill try and get ahold of Lookes.

I bent the rake back. I'm curious if this CC was actually the one that was in the machine while it was in service or if it was just a broken one that was tossed into the machine when the house dumped it. I've read that the caps usually go bad in them and that's usually all it takes to fix them.
« Last Edit: Today at 08:58:48 AM by shortrackskater »

Offline Stayouttadabunker

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Re: IGT S/S+ Machine diagnosis
« Reply #3 on: Today at 08:49:53 AM »
oh...I thought you had a CC16D-100 24VAC coin comparator...that's what we usually use for S+'s.
That purple one you have is different, and I believe made for those large casino tokens?
I've never used those ones.
I have seen documentation on those models somewhere before, but I'm not sure where.
Bending the rake makes the coin go straight down into the coin-in optics below.
Just about anything that fits into the slot should get registered as a credit...even slugs.

I'm kind of surprised by your CC harness wiring colors.
That's not standard for an S+ CC harness - at least, not in that color configuration.
The red loop is right, but the blue one is normally purple.
The red wire under the loop, is normally a yellow wire.
The green wire is normally black.
Someone made a CC harness out of a 3-piece type of wiring...cool really!  :cool_thumb_up: ...no plastic ties needed. :yes:

But yeah, changing out the cap may help as many caps made for these coin comparators got to be going on nearly 30 years old by now?
Most likely the cap is all dried up and not holding charges anymore.
So, swapping old the cap for a fresher one might help restore the CC....not a guarantee though.
« Last Edit: Today at 09:20:24 AM by Stayouttadabunker »
Remember, the more you tell us - the better we can help you!

Consider becoming a regular contributing member, which helps pay costs to keep this site up and running so you can keep your machine up and running :)

 

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