Author Topic: S+ error code 61-2 (Read 29378 times)

Jules · « **Reply #60 on:** March 10, 2015, 10:52:20 PM »

Don't know who is right Rick Hunter or CV slots, but people on here are costing me a lot of money with their suggestions implying I should buy both a cpu and a motherboard and then have someone marry the two boards together. Still think it may be only a connector some where, but I have removed the cover on the off on switch and checked the connections, and taken the lid off the metal power supply box and checked the connectors in this box. Also I have pushed the self test button over a hundred times with no luck. I have also checked all connections on the mother board and at the bottom of the machine. Furthermore I have checked the plugs going into the top of the cpu box to make sure they were secure. Anyone have access to a schematic or place online where I can actually see where the connectors go. I do have a chart of the connections of the mother board which rockinelvis provided me. Pictures would be worth a thousand words. Is their a manual that shows where the connectors inside the cabinet go? Thanks! everyone for your time. Right now, I guess I'm drowning in confusion.

knagl · « **Reply #61 on:** March 11, 2015, 12:26:24 AM »

Jules, I understand that it can be frustrating when you're trying to fix a machine and it just isn't working yet, despite your best efforts. Please understand that everyone in this thread is trying to help you, and that nobody is intentionally trying to get you to buy parts you don't need and spend money that you don't have to.

I don't think that Rick was implying that you should buy a MPU and Motherboard that were "married" together at someone's shop -- he was simply saying that the only way to be able to install a new MPU board and not get any errors at all would be to do that. I don't think he was suggesting you do that, either, just stating that it is normal to get some error codes when you first install a different MPU board into a machine.

When troubleshooting, especially from afar when we don't have the machine in front of us to see exactly what it is doing or not doing, we can only offer suggestions as to what the likely cause of the problem is, and ask lots of questions and require lots of detail from you. You're doing a good job keeping us updated as to what's happening with your machine -- just try to stay patient as we go back and forth until we can figure out exactly where the issue is.

Do you know if the white "self test" button located next to the power switch has ever worked for you? At this point, I would use your multimeter to try checking for continuity on the wires that lead from the switch, down the back of the machine, down to the motherboard to make sure that the motherboard is getting the signal that the switch is closed when you press on it.

Does anyone have a good picture of all of the wire harnesses plugged into a typical S+ motherboard? I think that's what Jules could use right now to see if all of the harnesses in the problem machine are plugged in, and plugged into the correct sockets in the motherboard.

For your reference, below is a picture of an IGT S+ 10 Mhz (typical) MPU (or "processor") board. This is the removable board in the metal tray with the black knob on it where your chips go.

I have also attached a picture of a S+ motherboard (sometimes referred to as a "backplane"). This is the fixed board in the bottom of your machine that typically is not removed. Additionally, while it's not impossible for your motherboard to be bad, it is unusual -- most typical issues are in the MPU board.

Jules · « **Reply #62 on:** March 11, 2015, 03:53:30 AM »

Thanks! to any and to all for your help and suggestions. I do have a chart or a photo which does show where the different plugs fit in to the motherboard at the bottom of the machine which is very helpful.
My apologies as my frustrations were not meant to offend anyone.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #63 on:** March 11, 2015, 04:32:01 AM »

Jules, your mother board/ backplane is on the bottom of your machine. It is where the burnt plug was. I would try using your clear chip correctly this time in the SP socket. Put it back in the machine, turn on, and hopefully the test button will go ding and it will do the counting and clear. Then replace the clear with your SP. When you turn it on should be 61, fingers crossed test button will change to 61-1, close door and turn J/P key. Is your test button on the front of your on/off switch or the backside?

rickhunter · « **Reply #64 on:** March 11, 2015, 06:38:52 AM »

I was not implying you should go out and get more parts. I was providing the reason why you are getting the 65 errors, and that the only way to avoid those errors when moving mpu's about, is to move the mainboard with it (or the eeprom chip, which is not always socketed). A 65 error is a common error, and should be easily cleared by pushing the button. That being said, if it is not working for you, I would suggest you get a meter and test the button, and then follow the button to the mainboard to make sure it is connected. Then test the button at the other end of the harness that goes into the mainboard. The S+ is a super machine, and things rarely go wrong with it. My machine is over 20 years old, and the only issue I've had with it has been a battery change. So don't despair, when you get it going, it will be a very reliable and enjoyable machine for you many years to come.

Jules · « **Reply #65 on:** March 11, 2015, 08:55:56 AM »

Thanks! Rick,
I appreciate your input. Most likely I will go ahead and do a clear, but want to check that self test button first. My only hesitation is that the slot machine company that I bought the board from told me that they were going to do a clear and marry the cpu board to the dbv-200 on my machine. They then said they had tried it on their machines and it worked fine. I just don't want to mess anything else up so I will proceed with caution. I do have the clear and set chip to do this if necessary. Thanks! again

Jules · « **Reply #66 on:** March 11, 2015, 09:16:40 AM »

What kind of voltage should I have when testing the self test connectors to the board?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #67 on:** March 11, 2015, 11:28:34 AM »

I don't think any voltage is present. Just making ground for continuity. I have asked about your switch a couple times. It is a tiny button on the same box as the on/off switch. I had one guy pushing the cherry switch instead of test button.

Jules · « **Reply #68 on:** March 11, 2015, 11:42:04 AM »

My switch is a little metal button at the back of my on/off switch. Hopefully I am pushing the right one.
Thanks for the pic. I will check this white door button pictured out with my machine as someone may have removed that from mine.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #69 on:** March 11, 2015, 11:51:00 AM »

You may have the cherry switch, but probably not hooked to anything is normal. Just making sure you were pushing the right button. I was on the phone with a guy and he was pushing the button. I drove an hour to his house to find he was pushing the wrong button. That's why I asked. Don't worry so much about them marrying your board to the dbv200. that is the easy part. Go ahead and do a clear so the mother board will clear also. When your ready for settings I will walk you through them on the phone if you like.

Jules · « **Reply #70 on:** March 11, 2015, 12:38:40 PM »

Looking at the previous picture, I noticed that my door is missing some things. The white door release button is missing. Is this the self testing button. My machine as you can see does not have this. I have been pusing a metal button on the back of the off/on switch. It is missing the door lock and the only the lift up metal door latch is there. The key reset is there with two wires attached. Hope this picture sheds some light on some things. I do not have the two wires leading in front of the reels to the second reel from the right. Here is the pic. I hope I am not missing something major.

Shaggy · « **Reply #71 on:** March 11, 2015, 12:51:10 PM »

No the white "cherry" switch is not necessary. It was used in the Casinos. The one shown is the door optics. It sounds like you're pushing the correct button. Your machine is wired up just like mine. Don't worry about the white switch.

Shaggy · « **Reply #72 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:00:33 PM »

When you push in on the test button on the back of the power switch do you feel or hear it click?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #73 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:01:06 PM »

You are looking at you cabinet side door optics there. Missing the cherry switch is not a problem. Casino's had that wired to let them know when the door was opened. Others use it to bypass door optics. You are pushing the right button since it is on the back of the on/off switch. I hate them on the back and love them in the front. Are you feeling cocky yet to do the clear? Have you traced the wires from your test button to the board? If for some reason the button is not hooked up to the board you will know with the clear. If you put the clear chip in the button should work. If not then it will not clear anything.

rickhunter · « **Reply #74 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:38:21 PM »

See picture below for what we called the "reset" button.

Jules · « **Reply #75 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:42:39 PM »

Ok..put clear chip in place of game chip correctly
Put board in, turned power on and 0 on winners paid display and 0 on coins played display. No count up or down
bottom candle light is flashing

rjpohl · « **Reply #76 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:45:39 PM »

Did you hear a "ding" when you turned it on?
After you hear the ding you should press the reset button to start the clearing process.

do you have a copy of the ramclearing procedures?

Jules · « **Reply #77 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:50:23 PM »

No ding when I turned it on. Yes I have a copy of the ram clearing procedure put out by igt.

rjpohl · « **Reply #78 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:53:52 PM »

did you press reset button???

Jules · « **Reply #79 on:** March 11, 2015, 01:56:01 PM »

Pressed the button on the back of the on off switch and nothing happened other that the 0 on the winnings display and 0 on the coins inserted. Bottom candle light as I stated before is flashing.

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: S+ error code 61-2 (Read 29378 times)