Author Topic: No Lights Bally1088 (Read 10859 times)

DavidLee · « **on:** May 05, 2015, 05:41:07 PM »

Here is one for ya. Bought a real nice 1979 1088-1 with very low miles. Anyway the guy I got it from said it won't light up, no power.
OK, shouldn't be to complicated, Brought it back to my shop on its back side, about a 15 mile trip. Got the machine situated in the shop, plugged it in and it completely lights up, nice surprise. At least I know its nothing serious and its fixable I think. OK lets try to get the mechanical part going. Nothing will move all the grease has turned into hard wax. Machine is still lit up, until I tripped the the Micro switch that counts the coins into lower cabinet. That blew the lights.
Tried a couple of fuses and got a short reaction from the coin diverter then the 5 amp fuse blew out. Checking the micro switch as this seem to be where the problem started. The middle wire on the switch, Brown with grey trace with the meter indicated grounded out.
Long story short, I suspect whatever was causing the ground righted it self on the ride in the back of the truck. Now reoccurring as the machine is in the proper position. Just a hunch.
Any theories, ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Amechanic · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2015, 06:35:52 PM »

I would first look closely for any loose coins floating around any power sorce, by the safety times back left corner.. I can't tell you how many quarter I've found back there. That 110V by the safety timer so make sure you unplug the machine before checking for loose change causing a short.. Second thing is the condition of the power cord. These old Ballys usually have damaged cords.

Gary

DavidLee · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2015, 07:17:44 PM »

Thanks Gary,
I did find 1 quarter in that area, but I wasn't really looking for one that could cause a short or malfunction.
Checked the power cord, but didn't put the meter on it as it was blowing fuses. Will double check it again.
Going to trace the brown/grey wire through the machine, might take me to the problem.
Thanks again

OldReno · « **Reply #3 on:** May 05, 2015, 11:48:15 PM »

Let it warm up real good.
Make sure your trip relays work and are not sticking
Check for coin behind the coin acceptor shorting to case.
check this link for shorts... http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?PHPSESSID=04ec305baf0cc6f050baf6376fc2aecb&topic=17559.0

DavidLee · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2015, 08:26:43 AM »

Thanks for the advice, I'll check behind the coin acceptor as I haven't had it out yet.
Will check the relays, any one particular?
Again Thanks

DavidLee · « **Reply #5 on:** May 06, 2015, 04:23:14 PM »

Pretty sure I've solved the problem, but waiting on fuses as I burned out all my 5 amp.
Anyway, I hooked the ohm meter to one of the yellow wires and the other lead to ground and got a audible verifying a short.
Just to make sure I tested another machines, no sound.
Okay, like I mentioned it worked after it was on its back for the ride to the shop. Which led me to believe something was getting grounded
when it suddenly stopped working a few minutes after I powered it up.
So with the meter sounding off, I started moving the wire looms working from back to front. Got to the door and door jam, presto no sound.
In the photo attached you will see the exposed wires I found grounding on the case.
Will update as soon as I get this fix and some fuses.
Also added a couple of photos to show this machines condition.
Thanks for all the help, great bunch of people out there.

DavidLee · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2015, 10:44:11 AM »

Okay, fixed the wires and its working fine. Need to clean the coin counter as it doesn't payout every time after a large payout.
Attached photo is the wire fix, did a little grafting with crazy glue. Also insulated the door edge just to be safe.
Figured out why this machine is in such good shape, no one in their right mind would play this machine because of the low payouts.

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** May 07, 2015, 01:06:13 PM »

That machine is known as a buy a pay, because you have to play 2-3 coins for larger payouts. If you only play one coin at a time you can only win the Cherries, two coins you can win up to the Bells. To win the 3 Bars you have to play all 3 coins.. I had one here about 6 months back, and I was surprised how often mine paid off on the Bars..

OldReno · « **Reply #8 on:** May 07, 2015, 01:29:06 PM »

The buy a pay was a very very very popular machine, and made a lot of money for the casinos.
Especially when someone only played 1 coin and hit the bars.
If you posted the reel strip readings, we could probably figure out the hit frequency and payout frequencies.

OldReno · « **Reply #9 on:** May 07, 2015, 01:33:09 PM »

David, if it doesn't pay out every time after a large pay, you must look at the payboard, and the pay fingers to be sure that they have reset to zero after you pull the handle for a new game. If they do not reset, you will not get a pay on the next winner. Or the pay will be short. This may be your whole problem here. One way to tell is to notice if the winner paid light stays on or not. If it stays on the payboard did probably NOT reset.

DavidLee · « **Reply #10 on:** May 07, 2015, 04:48:11 PM »

OldReno, checked it out as suspected coin payout is slow returning and not completely. This is the next part that needs to be cleaned.
Also on the Bars in this order 4-6-4, compared to the 777 machine which has Bars is this order 2-9-1. So the odds are better on the pay as you play machine.
Will try to get to the coin payout maybe on Friday. Doesn't take to long to clean, I might have to put a little more tension on spring as it seems to move fairly free. Will see whats up when I get it out of the machine.
Also need to look at the reel trip mechanism as the it binds up and the end of the cycle and keeps the pull handle from returning all the way back.
I checked the handle and it works fine with the reels out of the machine. Going to check the threaded drive shaft to see if it has a little free movement as recommended.
Everything else in this area seem to be in good working order. Any advice on what might be a common problem causing the binding would be greatly appreciated.
Side note the trip and spin mechanism would work at all when I got the machine, It took a little time and some cleaning just to get working.

agneshia · « **Reply #11 on:** May 07, 2015, 05:18:46 PM »

im new of this site..
thank you im learned a lot

OldReno · « **Reply #12 on:** May 07, 2015, 06:20:08 PM »

Welcome, agnesia, nice to have you here.
David, please try to download the bally manual, and it will help if you can reference what you are talking about once in awhile by the page number you find it on. That way we can all be on the same page as it were, such a bad pun.
Not to give you any harshness, but talking about the coin payout being slow returning is vague. I suspect you mean the spiral cam assembly with the wiper fingers on it? (I really should look it up myself and not be a hypocrite, sorry....)
It is very important that we be clear on what piece or pieces we are talking about. Having been here with NLG for some time, it is very hard to follow things when they are not accurately described. It is even more difficult than fixing the problems themselves. Thanks for your good humor, all.

DavidLee · « **Reply #13 on:** May 07, 2015, 08:05:25 PM »

Got an after market manual, but I know what your saying about being on the same page.
Thought about mentioning the turquoise cam, sorry I didn't. I usually refer to that unit as the coin counter.
Please recommend a manual, I think I have the one from Liberty covering Bally EMs 64 to 80.
Hope to have time tomorrow to work on the payout cam and the reel trip mechanism that binds causing slow handle return.
Also had a person in my shop ask me what a bally machine cost new back in the late 70s.
Didn't really have an answer for him. Have an idea what the average cost would of been for a Bally machine?

[/size][size=78%]Side note[/size]
[/size][size=78%]Kinda new to this site and haven't figured out how to chance topics in mid stream as I've changed topics a few times, but I'll catch on.[/size]
[/size]
[/size]Will post the outcome hopefully soon.[size=78%]

Jon · « **Reply #14 on:** May 07, 2015, 09:18:30 PM »

http://www.idealposter.com/
try this link David it'll make it a lot easier

DavidLee · « **Reply #15 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:36:06 AM »

Thanks for the link, finally getting back to the old 88 today.
Will check out the link ASAP.
Going to post a question about the Air Cylinder Piston.
The rubber cup seal is completely deteriorated.

Is is possible to use a Brake Cylinder cup seal from the auto parts store?

Thanks for your help
Dave

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:51:19 AM »

There have been posts on using a brake seals before.. I don't remember if it was here or the old form?? I my self just clean up and off the old seal, then I reinstall the piston without a new rubber seal. I just use a light coating of the blue water proof wheel bearing grease on the piston and inside the cylinder.

Gary

DavidLee · « **Reply #17 on:** May 11, 2015, 02:38:47 PM »

Gary,

After I got into cleaning the piston, it was hard to tell if the black gunk was a rubber seal or just a bunch of grease.
So the blue water proof wheel bearing grease works okay.
I imagine the new grease will ride on the piston and doesn't accumulating at the end of the cylinder.
Going to look around on the site to see what I can find out about the brake seal.

Thanks for your help
Dave

Amechanic · « **Reply #18 on:** May 11, 2015, 02:48:56 PM »

I've seen it and I think one thread even had a part number.

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Author Topic: No Lights Bally1088 (Read 10859 times)