s+ double desire stiff reel no display.. no Function.. Just fluorescent lights

[tknehr1987]

ok I got a free igt s+ double desire off Facebook market place I'm newbe to slots. it did not work at all when I first got it. i checked fuses and bottom one was blown so replaced it.   Fluorescent lights work bill  Validator makes a whinding noise and reels get stiff. I checked mpu battery and it leaked all over the place. so I ordered a new battery . while I was  Waiting for battery delivery my  Three-year-old pulled a whole bunch of components off the MPU.... So ordered one that matched it off of eBay.. got every thing back together .and it's the same thing no display stiff reels and that's it..oh reel one twitches a little.. I checked main power supply it was lose so I  Directly Soderd  it to the motherboard... Idk I have read every thread on here..  Any help would be appreciated

[rokgpsman]

Since the mpu board is mounted vertically and plugs into the motherboard below it I'd make sure the motherboard didn't get some of that battery leakage that went everywhere.

Double-check all fuses, using a meter is best because the fuse filament may look ok but be broken at one end where it attaches inside to the metal cap of the fuse. Also check the fuseholders to make sure the black fuse cap is tight around the fuse and that the spring inside the fuseholder is good.

Do you mean you took the wires out of the white molex connector that plugs into the motherboard and soldered them directly to the motherboard power connector pins?

Does the display on front of machine light up? Do the pushbuttons light up?

[tknehr1987]

yes the battery did leak on motherboard  i removed it and cleaned ... and returned to machine .. yes i solder them to motherboard pins..push bottoms buttons do not light up. the 25cent light is on.








(edit to fix word "buttons")

[tknehr1987]

I'm having problem uploading pics.. and I did replace all fuses..

[rokgpsman]

The photos will have to be 1meg or smaller in filesize. So you'll need to reduce their size.

When you bought the new mpu board did you remove the SS and SP chips from the old mpu and install them onto the new mpu? Are both mpu boards the same style (10mhz or 16 mhz)?  The 10mhz mpu boards have the round blue sound adjustment wheel on one edge of the board. The 16mhz mpu does not have this.

Did the battery leakage damage the motherboard copper traces?

[tknehr1987]

the new board did not come with chips so I had to switch them.. and both boards are 10 mhz... it's hard to tell on motherboard  i held it up to a light and didn't see any brakes.. and when I cleaned it .it did expose some of the copper traces..

[rokgpsman]

That motherboard looks iffy to me. I'd consider replacing it, they don't cost that much.

When you installed the 2 chips onto the new mpu, you put them in the correct socket, no bent legs, didn't get the notched-end installed backwards? Maybe post a photo of the new mpu.

[Amechanic]

I wouldn't trust that mother board. I’d be replacing it.









(edit to fix the word "wouldn't")

[rokgpsman]

yeah, even if you scrub the board clean and all the traces look ok you don't know what's underneath all the connectors and chips on the board. The copper traces under there can be eaten away, connector contacts can be corroded, etc. You can spend a lot of time troubleshooting & checking everything else, still not get it working due to a bad motherboard. All of the essential signals to and from the mpu board go thru the motherboard.

Not sure I'd solder the power supply wires directly to the motherboard connector pins. That can make it harder down the road to do troubleshooting or repairs. On the positive side I guess it eliminates the worry about intermittent connections on that connector, as long as the soldering is done well.

You can get a replacement motherboard and another power supply wiring harness from some of the S+ parts suppliers here. Just post a message requesting what you need and we'll get it added to the Classified Ads area. The parts you buy here come from trusted folks that will make sure you get parts that work.

[tknehr1987]

yea  replacing motherboard is next on list.. I'll post pics trying to get my phone to take pics I can upload .. thank you for the help

[tknehr1987]

and I was trying to make  Prongs inside of Molex tighter it was very lose.. and one broke off is why i solder it

[tknehr1987]

here's the old mpu and transformer

[tknehr1987]

iso motherboard and power supply harness for igt s+

[RB]

I have both. Pm me with zip for price with shipping.

[tknehr1987]

ok MB and harness ordered... I can't wait to see this machine come to life.. thank all of you ..

[rokgpsman]

ok MB and harness ordered... I can't wait to see this machine come to life.. thank all of you ..

I think replacing the motherboard and that power supply wiring harness is the right way to do things. Whether you plan on keeping this machine or selling it you will want it to work reliably from here on out. And since you got it for such a low price (free?) it's ok to spend a little on it to gain a lot.

You probably know the following, but just to make sure:
1) next to the power switch is the white TEST button. It is used to access the built-in setup and test menus.
2) there are 2 main chips on the mpu board that control the operation of the machine. These are the 2 socketed chips that you moved from the old mpu board to this one. Your mpu has SP1271 and SS7865 chips. More info about your particular game is here:

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Desire%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm

You will notice in the chart for this game that your SS7865 chip has a player win percentage of about 85%. That is kinda low, casinos love it because they keep more of the players money. But for home use having a higher percentage is more fun. No one wants to play a machine that doesn't win the bigger amounts very often. As long as you are ordering a couple of things from RB I would suggest you get a better SS chip from him too. I think that would increase your playing fun. Something like 95%. 

Also, the game chart shows that your reel strips are code "AAA" (in the "Stops" column). This means all 3 strips are identical. So if you remove the reels or strips for some reason you don't have to worry about getting them installed wrong, the strips can be in any order since all 3 strips are the same, have exactly the same symbols.

It looks like your bill validator is a DBV-145, can you verify that?

I've brightened some of your photos and reposted them in case that helps others to see something they want to comment about. The colors on the glass of this machine are very good, I like the design.

[tknehr1987]

yes dbv 145...and yes was free it was in a man's garage  And he wanted to free up space it was dusty and the chrome had  A lot of surface rust  was easily cleaned with crl ... and I don't mind putting  some dollars into it I plan on keeping ... now I'm looking at some other s+ machines because this one has sparked  Interest

[rokgpsman]

.....yes dbv 145...and yes was free it was in a man's garage  And he wanted to free up space it was dusty and the chrome had  A lot of surface rust  was easily cleaned with crl ... and I don't mind putting  so dollars into it I plan on keeping ... now I'm looking at some other s+ machines because this one has sparked  Interest

Ha! That's the bug a lot of people catch!   

The DBV-145 bill validator is old enough that it will only work with $1 bills now that the USA has redesigned all of its paper money except for the $1. If the DBV-145 works and you are ok with just using $1 that's fine, many homeowners have the same thing. But if you'd like to be able to use other bills, like a $20, you can remove the DBV-145 and install a DBV-200, it is a direct replacement. Pretty easy to do. You would need to get the model of DBV-200 that has internal software for the IGT S+ machines. That is what the "ID-022/023" sticker/markings on the DBV means.

Another thing about your machine, with the SP1271 chip on the mpu board you don't have to worry about that mpu dipswitch or its settings. SP1271 ignores the dipswitch, all options and settings are done thru software menus which are accessed by pressing that white TEST button near the power switch.

Did you see my comment earlier about maybe replacing your SS chip with one that has a higher player win percentage?

[tknehr1987]

yes the ss chip is on the list but I would like to get it  Operational first. My wife is starting to take notice on my spending lol...i spent way to much on the mpu on ebay.  i found them on here for 38$ with battery... how much would a machine like mine be worth after I get it running?.. so I can explain to her it's a investment.  lol.







.

[rokgpsman]

Keeping the wife happy with this hobby is another skill that you'll have to learn! 

Prices on a working S+ vary from as low as $150-$200 and then upward. Some games are more sought after (Double Diamond Deluxe, Haywire, Coral Reef, etc). Now that the S2000 machines are getting cheaper it has pushed down the S+ pricing. But really I think a big part of the value is in the fun you get from the machine and the feeling you get when you take a broken machine and get it working. You and the wife and friends, kids, etc will enjoy playing it.

So, when you are looking at buying other machines try to get them for the same price you did this one. 

You don't want to pay too much for a non-working machine because the parts to repair it will add to the investment. And look over any machine carefully when you are thinking about buying it, make sure you know if it has any missing parts. And watch for machines that are extra rusty, they have sometimes been in floods from the coastal casinos, and those can be a nightmare to repair.